Yes…..I was thinking of fitting the USD forks off the RS on to the A4, do you think that's a bad idea ?
Métis 2 Bobber Build
- Thread starter CAT3
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Of course, you have to take the opinion of someone who has forgotten what forks are for with a pinch of salt...Yes…..
If you are on a low-fat diet, a fork is just the thing. Good thinking, ExiThey are for eating your millet - although a spoonmight be better...
So, I've had a reply today from Motogadget's help desk & after they have viewed the two short videos that I sent them showing the behaviour of the unit's LEDs when the fault occurs they have replicated the exact same results on a bench test. It happens if the battery voltage drops to too low a level, which is exactly whats happening on my bike when, (with everything connected normally) I hit the START button. Basically confirming the battery is duff.
So now I'm waiting for the supplier to get back to me with what they find after I'd returned my defective battery to them the other day.
Fingers crossed I get a new battery & that's the end of my woes & I can finally get the old nail running !!
So now I'm waiting for the supplier to get back to me with what they find after I'd returned my defective battery to them the other day.
Fingers crossed I get a new battery & that's the end of my woes & I can finally get the old nail running !!
Heard back from the battery people today & apparently the BMS had kicked in, which effectively puts the battery to sleep. They have reset it & currently have it on charge. Hopefully it will be back with me by Friday 
I'm guessing when I was spinning the engine over to pump a bit of oil round it before starting it, the battery voltage dropped to a level low enough for the BMS to kick in, to protect the battery from the voltage dropping too low. I believe they had to use another battery to "jump" it back into life & reset the BMS.
We'll see !!
I'm guessing when I was spinning the engine over to pump a bit of oil round it before starting it, the battery voltage dropped to a level low enough for the BMS to kick in, to protect the battery from the voltage dropping too low. I believe they had to use another battery to "jump" it back into life & reset the BMS.
We'll see !!
So, battery came back yesterday so I fitted it today with great expectations of getting the engine running at last. How wrong can you be, it's exactly the same as it was when I sent it back the first time !! 
Well pissed off !!
Just to prove it beyond doubt & fitted the Kawasaki RS's battery & that spun the starter over, (plugs removed just to pump some oil around the engine).
I then removed what is basically the same battery on the other Métis & fitted the new battery to that bike. The same result as on the new Métis, didn't work.
I then fitted the old Métis battery to the new Métis & it works fine !!
Just recovering all the polystyrene "S's" out of the recycle bin now to send it back on Monday !!
Well pissed off !!Just to prove it beyond doubt & fitted the Kawasaki RS's battery & that spun the starter over, (plugs removed just to pump some oil around the engine).
I then removed what is basically the same battery on the other Métis & fitted the new battery to that bike. The same result as on the new Métis, didn't work.
I then fitted the old Métis battery to the new Métis & it works fine !!
Just recovering all the polystyrene "S's" out of the recycle bin now to send it back on Monday !!
After my earlier disappointment I tried starting the engine, but all I got was a back-fire out of the exhaust. Checked the timing again & after reading the magneto instructions for the umteenth time I figured out what I'd done wrong !! 
Trouble is the actual instructions for the magneto have a picture of the points & where to position the heel of the points on the narrow side of the cam. Trouble is that picture is not of the G5 magneto I'd bought & although I knew it rotated the opposite way to a "normal" magneto the picture was so misleading that I'd got the timing about 180 degrees out. Anyway, once I'd worked out what I should be doing the engine fired up straight away, albeit with the battery off the other bike !
The timing mark on the crank is a bit difficult to see too as my exhaust runs just about the hole you have to look in & there's not mark/line on the crankcase to align with the line on the crank. I'm assuming you just get the line in the middle of the hole so there's scope for it to be non too accurate. Having said that Harleys aren't that particular to accuracy I think !!
Below is the view of the "F" timing mark line on the crank, through the viewing hole.
These are the points in my magneto, the cam rotates clockwise in this view. The picture in the instructions shows the points on the other side of the cam, (where the dip switches are) & the heel on the other small lobe corner. They also make a bit of an issue saying that the cam rotates the opposite way & you need left-hand point. Also, because there is a wind-up mechanism in the magneto you have to turn the crank until that triggers, then wind it back past the timing mark & then bring it back up to the timing mark ! All very confusing, easy once you have it sussed, but they could make it a whole lot easier.
Just need a good replacement battery now & I can get it MOT'd next week hopefully
Trouble is the actual instructions for the magneto have a picture of the points & where to position the heel of the points on the narrow side of the cam. Trouble is that picture is not of the G5 magneto I'd bought & although I knew it rotated the opposite way to a "normal" magneto the picture was so misleading that I'd got the timing about 180 degrees out. Anyway, once I'd worked out what I should be doing the engine fired up straight away, albeit with the battery off the other bike !
The timing mark on the crank is a bit difficult to see too as my exhaust runs just about the hole you have to look in & there's not mark/line on the crankcase to align with the line on the crank. I'm assuming you just get the line in the middle of the hole so there's scope for it to be non too accurate. Having said that Harleys aren't that particular to accuracy I think !!
Below is the view of the "F" timing mark line on the crank, through the viewing hole.
These are the points in my magneto, the cam rotates clockwise in this view. The picture in the instructions shows the points on the other side of the cam, (where the dip switches are) & the heel on the other small lobe corner. They also make a bit of an issue saying that the cam rotates the opposite way & you need left-hand point. Also, because there is a wind-up mechanism in the magneto you have to turn the crank until that triggers, then wind it back past the timing mark & then bring it back up to the timing mark ! All very confusing, easy once you have it sussed, but they could make it a whole lot easier.
Just need a good replacement battery now & I can get it MOT'd next week hopefully
Sorry if you've covered this elsewhere in the thread and I've missed it, but why is it classified as a Sportster?Re-attached the VIN plate to the frame today after the various modifications
Doesn't look anything like Wayne's Sportster though !!
View attachment 165801
The engine appears to be a pre-unit Panhead.
When doing builds like this you basically have two options, one is to build a bike from scratch with the major parts, i.e. frame, engine, gearbox, etc, etc all new & then get it SVA, (Single Vehicle Approved) tested. This is basically an indepth MOT, but also checks things like lights being E-marked, at the correct heights above the ground, distance from the vehicle centre, ball-ends on your handlebar levers & a whole host of other requirements. For that you get a brand new registration, (if it passes !!) & do not need an MOT for three years. Basically exactly the same & buying a brand new bike from a dealer.
The other option is to buy a bike & modify it, or buy a bike frame with a V5 & modify that. I chose that route
(Just added) Sorry Gimlet, I forgot to include info about the engine, it's a brand new S&S P-series Panhead copy. Basically a modern Panhead built to look like the old Panheads.
Out of the various versions of Harley engine it's the one I like, aesthetically, the best followed by the Knucklehead, but Knuckleheads command higher prices whether they are modern versions or originals. Both these versions have the "bulge" on the front right-hand side of the crankcases where the generator would originally have been mounted.
Having said that the Shovelhead seems to be the most popular & the cheapest no matter what era it comes from, maybe because it's cheaper. These engines don't tend to have the generator "bulge".
The other option is to buy a bike & modify it, or buy a bike frame with a V5 & modify that. I chose that route
(Just added) Sorry Gimlet, I forgot to include info about the engine, it's a brand new S&S P-series Panhead copy. Basically a modern Panhead built to look like the old Panheads.
Out of the various versions of Harley engine it's the one I like, aesthetically, the best followed by the Knucklehead, but Knuckleheads command higher prices whether they are modern versions or originals. Both these versions have the "bulge" on the front right-hand side of the crankcases where the generator would originally have been mounted.
Having said that the Shovelhead seems to be the most popular & the cheapest no matter what era it comes from, maybe because it's cheaper. These engines don't tend to have the generator "bulge".
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They will only quote you up to 30 days in advance - going on your previous form the battery issue has another 2 or 3 years to run.....UPS should be calling in today to collect the battery & take it back to the supplier. Hopefully all will be resolved soon
Started ringing around today for insurance quotes !!
Do you have to send them photo's
I've tried two companies so far, first one didn't need photos, the second one might do ! 
Second one is one of my current insurers so they might go off the other bike, which they do have pictures of for the agreed value.
I'll try a third company later, fed up with answering questions at the moment !!
Second one is one of my current insurers so they might go off the other bike, which they do have pictures of for the agreed value.
I'll try a third company later, fed up with answering questions at the moment !!
I made sure I went with photo's from every angle (otherwise they would have had many excuses if anything ever happened) when I first insured my KR many years ago now.....I've tried two companies so far, first one didn't need photos, the second one might do !
Second one is one of my current insurers so they might go off the other bike, which they do have pictures of for the agreed value.
I'll try a third company later, fed up with answering questions at the moment !!
they can't list hundreds of modifications ..... 
Are you really?fed up with answering questions at the moment !!
From the insurance companies ............ honest !!
A completely box-standard bike can be built from off-the-shelf parts in only 15-16 weeks, I am reliably informed. And they are easy to insure!Only slightly modified Mr. Gimlet !!
While I'm STILL waiting for a replacement battery, or to even hear from the supplier in response to my emails, (I also forgot to phone them today during office hours so I'll have to try & remember tomorrow) I found some shorter, suitable ish shock units for the seat. These ones are around 40mm shorter.
The "stance" looks much better now, in my eye's at least so I just need to find a spring manufacturer now to make me a couple of suitable springs to suit my weight instead of the 550Lbs. springs they came supplied with. There was an option of another spring, but I figured a 450Lbs. spring was no better !!
I used a spring manufacturer in North Manchester area for the last bike so I'll have to see if they are still about otherwise I'll be looking for another suitable company.
The "stance" looks much better now, in my eye's at least so I just need to find a spring manufacturer now to make me a couple of suitable springs to suit my weight instead of the 550Lbs. springs they came supplied with. There was an option of another spring, but I figured a 450Lbs. spring was no better !!
I used a spring manufacturer in North Manchester area for the last bike so I'll have to see if they are still about otherwise I'll be looking for another suitable company.