916 swing arm bolt removal

[Jon916]

After reading several horror stories about seized swing arm bolts, I finally got around to checking mind. Against all odds it still turns relatively easily. I would like to keep it that way but I have never removed a swing arm bolt on this bike. Is it possible to remove the bolt, clean, grease and refit without removing the engine/swing arm (if I support everything)? Or is there anything to be gained in totally stripping it down? (sounds like a job for the winter)

 

[Markduc]

After reading several horror stories about seized swing arm bolts, I finally got around to checking mind. Against all odds it still turns relatively easily. I would like to keep it that way but I have never removed a swing arm bolt on this bike. Is it possible to remove the bolt, clean, grease and refit without removing the engine/swing arm (if I support everything)? Or is there anything to be gained in totally stripping it down? (sounds like a job for the winter)

It will turn but maybe stuck
lots of penatrating oil and the correct tool saves lots of hassle
you can remove the arm with the engine in situ , but you need to spread the frame a little

 

[Markduc]

Forgot to say if you’re just greasing the pin
you don’t need to remove the arm

 

[Robarano]

Read the thread on here about difficulty removing a swing arm bolt due to a 'springy' frame.

Swingarm Pivot Bolt Again!!

Sorry to raise what seems to be a common issue again. I'm having difficulty removing the pivot bolt from my 1198, the final step before fitting a shiny new swingarm. Before starting, I watched a YouTube video, which made it look easy, so I jumped in removing everything else first. I followed...

www.ducati.community

Swingarm Pivot Bolt Again!!

Yes, but the collar & bolt have bonded together. I have repeatedly tried drifting it out & pulling, but the bond is holding. :unsure:

www.ducati.community

Brace the frame together, maybe with a ratchet strap around each side, above the bolt to save you a whole lot of headache.

As above. No need to remove the bolt fully, just drift it 90% of the way through.

 

[West Cork Paul]

After reading several horror stories about seized swing arm bolts, I finally got around to checking mind. Against all odds it still turns relatively easily. I would like to keep it that way but I have never removed a swing arm bolt on this bike. Is it possible to remove the bolt, clean, grease and refit without removing the engine/swing arm (if I support everything)? Or is there anything to be gained in totally stripping it down? (sounds like a job for the winter)

You don’t need to remove the engine but you will need to support the bike somehow other than using a rear paddock stand. I strapped my 748 to the ceiling and had an axle stand under the engine.

It’s also a good idea to remove the rear shock and tie rod before attempting to drift the SA bolt through.

 

[Robarano]

You don’t need to remove the engine but you will need to support the bike somehow other than using a rear paddock stand. I strapped my 748 to the ceiling and had an axle stand under the engine.

It’s also a good idea to remove the rear shock and tie rod before attempting to drift the SA bolt through.

When I changed my swing arm, I placed axle stands under the (non folding) footpegs. That way the weight of the bike and pressure of the spring were released.

Swingarm Pivot Bolt Again!!

Sorry to raise what seems to be a common issue again. I'm having difficulty removing the pivot bolt from my 1198, the final step before fitting a shiny new swingarm. Before starting, I watched a YouTube video, which made it look easy, so I jumped in removing everything else first. I followed...

www.ducati.community

 

[West Cork Paul]

When I changed my swing arm, I placed axle stands under the (non folding) footpegs. That way the weight of the bike and pressure of the spring were released.

Swingarm Pivot Bolt Again!!

Sorry to raise what seems to be a common issue again. I'm having difficulty removing the pivot bolt from my 1198, the final step before fitting a shiny new swingarm. Before starting, I watched a YouTube video, which made it look easy, so I jumped in removing everything else first. I followed...

www.ducati.community

Yep, @Jon916 if you swap over the foot pegs (you have to invert them to get them to fit) they then fold down, not up, and you can put axle stands under them.

 

[Jon916]

There was me thinking that because it rotated it would come straight out!
I’ll make a tool to screw into the spindle, does anyone know the outside diameter of the spindle/bolt ?
Strap the frame, soak in oil and swap the foot pegs around to support. Then get the gurt lumpy stick!
Thanks for the advice

 

[Markduc]

There was me thinking that because it rotated it would come straight out!
I’ll make a tool to screw into the spindle, does anyone know the outside diameter of the spindle/bolt ?
Strap the frame, soak in oil and swap the foot pegs around to support. Then get the gurt lumpy stick!
Thanks for the advice

I can measure the removal tool later today
it’s made of a softer metal than the swing arm spindle Ali I think
I guess so it doesn’t bur the edge of the spindle , which would then get stuck in the frame

 

[Jon916]

I can measure the removal tool later today
it’s made of a softer metal than the swing arm spindle Ali I think
I guess so it doesn’t bur the edge of the spindle , which would then get stuck in the frame

That would be great, thanks

 

[Birdie]

If you're just removing the bolt itself and nothing else you don't have to support anything, the top hat bushes protrude into the frame and holds the swingarm in place when the bolt is removed.
Steve

 

[Markduc]

If you're just removing the bolt itself and nothing else you don't have to support anything, the top hat bushes protrude into the frame and holds the swingarm in place when the bolt is removed.
Steve

When I did my 996 I was swapping the swing arm
so removed the hub and wheel , rear shock exhaust etc and the swing arm stayed in the frame when the spindle was removed, I did support the arm to stop it flopping down , it does stay in place until you remove the engine or spread the frame
it’s not as bad as you think the spindle had never been out and after a bit of penatrating oil , well a weeks worth of spraying every day it came out ok
I think the big danger is if you damage the end of the pin then it won’t pass through the bushes
the tool did bur swell ? So it wouldn’t go through but it was easy enough to clean up

 

[Robarano]

There was me thinking that because it rotated it would come straight out!
I’ll make a tool to screw into the spindle, does anyone know the outside diameter of the spindle/bolt ?
Strap the frame, soak in oil and swap the foot pegs around to support. Then get the gurt lumpy stick!
Thanks for the advice

Loosen the pivot bolt nut by a couple of turns, but don't remove it. I'm not sure if the 916 is the same as the 1098, but when I did mine, there was a washer behind the nut (pictured on the bench) that I removed and replaced the nut directly onto the bolt, so that I could have as many threads on the bolt as possible before I started trying to tap it through. You dont want to be mashing away at the threaded end of the bolt, that's a recipe for disaster. Put a socket on the loosened nut and tap that (the nut has a skirt on it that allows you to do this), you only need to move it by mm's. Once it starts moving your in clover. You can then remove the nut and carefully use a drift.

 

[Markduc]

Loosen the pivot bolt nut by a couple of turns, but don't remove it. I'm not sure if the 916 is the same as the 1098, but when I did mine, there was a washer behind the nut (pictured on the bench) that I removed and replaced the nut directly onto the bolt, so that I could have as many threads on the bolt as possible before I started trying to tap it through. You dont want to be mashing away at the threaded end of the bolt, that's a recipe for disaster. Put a socket on the loosened nut and tap that (the nut has a skirt on it that allows you to do this), you only need to move it by mm's. Once it starts moving your in clover. You can then remove the nut and carefully use a drift.

View attachment 24494

996 has a bolt in the end of the spindle not a nut it’s quite a fine thread too

 

[Robarano]

996 has a bolt in the end of the spindle not a nut it’s quite a fine thread too

The 1098 is the the same, I remember now The same theory applies. Remove the bolt and washer, replace the bolt, leaving a few mm slack to allow the swing arm pivot bolt to move.

(Parts 1, 2 & 3 shown here)

The 996 drawing looks to be the same

(Parts 35, 36 & 37)

 

[Markduc]

Found this only difference is genuine tool has a threaded end

 

[Markduc]

The 1098 is the the same, I remember now The same theory applies. Remove the bolt and washer, replace the bolt, leaving a few mm slack to allow the bolt to move.

(Parts 1, 2 & 3 shown here)

View attachment 24510

The 996 drawing looks to be the same

(Parts 35, 36 & 37)

View attachment 24511

I see what you mean, I was just too cowardly custard to do that

 

[West Cork Paul]

There was me thinking that because it rotated it would come straight out!
I’ll make a tool to screw into the spindle, does anyone know the outside diameter of the spindle/bolt ?
Strap the frame, soak in oil and swap the foot pegs around to support. Then get the gurt lumpy stick!
Thanks for the advice

If it’s turning then the chances are it will come out easily enough . Here’s mine from the 748, the first time it had seen the light of day for 19 years . I was dreading I’d have a @Chizel - Founding Father experience but after doing exactly as @Markduc suggests and applying copious amounts of penetrating oil daily for several days it started to turn and then drifted out. iirc, I reinserted the bolt all the way then used a socket on it and a long extension bar and tapped away. As others have said, by reinserting the bolt you won’t flare the interior threaded end of the spindle.

 

[Chizel - Founding Father]

If it’s turning then the chances are it will come out easily enough . Here’s mine from the 748, the first time it had seen the light of day for 19 years . I was dreading I’d have a @Chizel - Founding Father experience but after doing exactly as @Markduc suggests and applying copious amounts of penetrating oil daily for several days it started to turn and then drifted out. iirc, I reinserted the bolt all the way then used a socket on it and a long extension bar and tapped away. As others have said, by reinserting the bolt you won’t flare the interior threaded end of the spindle.
View attachment 24518View attachment 24519View attachment 24520View attachment 24521

Pretty ugly.....

 

[Andyb]

"If it’s turning then the chances are it will come out easily enough ."

if its turning it may well be stuck in the top hat bushes and so turning them in the bearings..... loads of lube, loads of patience, less brute force particularly around the end you are tempted to hit, use a proper tool that threads into or at least fits into the threaded end. and tap out tap it in tap it out ....etc

 

[West Cork Paul]

"If it’s turning then the chances are it will come out easily enough ."

if its turning it may well be stuck in the top hat bushes and so turning them in the bearings.....

good point


Whoooah, wait one moment. ‘Top hat’ bushes. Do they exist? Coz top hat bearings don’t .

Just messing with you Andy

 

[Andyb]

 

[Dukedesmo]

If you're just removing the bolt itself and nothing else you don't have to support anything, the top hat bushes protrude into the frame and holds the swingarm in place when the bolt is removed.
Steve

Indeed, it'll hold itself together just fine without the bolt (wouldn't recommend riding it though!).

You can even remove the engine, replace the bolt and have a rolling chassis - unlike on the older 888/Monster frames where the bike basically falls in half if you try.

Mine came out easily and I greased it up well when I refitted it (ooer!) so, hopefully will do again if required...

 

[Jon916]

Well, after a couple of days applying penetrating oil, I strapped the frame together and with a special drift made at work it’s out

 

[Jon916]

Now what is the recommended grease to put on it after I’ve cleaned it up

 

[Dukedesmo]

I used copper grease on mine, hopefully still comes out easily - though I haven't tried so can't confirm.

But I would think any anti-seize stuff that doesn't wash away/dry out would be good?

 

[Barry Hell]

I used copper grease on mine, hopefully still comes out easily - though I haven't tried so can't confirm.

But I would think any anti-seize stuff that doesn't wash away/dry out would be good?

Copper slip is only a problem if it gets really hot which the swing arm bolt shouldn't - any lithium based grease should also be ok it only sees steel on steel AFAIK - feel free to shoot me down if you have more detailed info

 

[WAYNE]

ALUMSLIP - Molyslip

PRODUCT INFORMATION Molyslip ALUMSLIP is a high-temperature, anti-seize compound formulated to protect fasteners from seizure-induced by extremes of temperature, pressure, and corrosion. The mineral oil base-fluid contains micronized particles of metal and non-metal fillers to provide excellent...

www.molyslip.co.uk

 

[Robarano]

Now what is the recommended grease to put on it after I’ve cleaned it up

Looking at the 1098R manual (these things are all the same). It recommends "Grease D - Protective grease with anti-corrosion and waterproofing properties" in the manual (Shell Retinax HD2). This was superceeded by Shell Gadus S2 and I used this when I put the BST swing arm in my bike last year.

 

[Dukedesmo]

Shame they didn't practice what they preach and grease'em all from the factory, that way we wouldn't be reading the 'my swingarm bolt is stuck' threads...