Recovering bypass/key codes 848/1098/1198 dash

I am slowly moving away from the forum and posting useful info as I find it.

The attached pdf relates to the 848/1098/1198 - I2K immo system. The immo chip recovery in the pdf can also be applied to other bikes with the 24C family of immo chips. Some are easier than others due to speed and tacho needles having to be removed.

This relates to the red key bike dash immo chip. IRC immo system.

The recovered data for the key transponders needs to be prefixed
BE FA ** ** ** ** ** **
and then converted to
7D 5F ** ** ** ** ** **

I have a device that does the conversion so can help out if necessary.

For example
Key code identified as 00 00 01 42 F7 7F from dash

This is BE FA 00 00 01 42 F7 7F

The data required to program a T5 Transponder is

7D 5F 00 00 80 42 EF FE

This data can be inputted manually using the likes of a Zedbull Mini

AliExpress is a good source for the Zedbull, key blanks and T5 Transponders

If you have an Android device there is an app called Transponder Tiris Converter. Costs £1.18. This will convert the data from the immo chip (BE FA) to the format for use with the key programmer (7D 5F)

If you like a challenge, then do it manually https://www.mri-auto-diagnostics.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/4C_INFO.pdf

To convert the transponder info you do the following
The BE FA needs to be converted from Hex to Binary.
The bit that needs converting is 01 42 F7 7F.
The zero of 01 will always be 0000 in binary and will be ignored using an online converter.
So 01 = 00000001 (where 0001=1), 42=01000010, F7=11110111, 7F=01111111

To convert to Tiris the binary needs to be reversed and converted back to hex.
So 10000000=80, 01000010=42, 11101111= EF, 11111110=FE.
That will give you the 80 42 EF FE required to add to 7D 5F 00 00 to program a T5 transponder.

This process also applies to other dashes that use the 24C16 eeprom. However, to access the chip requires the removal of tacho and speedo needles, so care is required. The dash also needs to be powered up before the needles are refitted so they align correctly.

Ducati will tell you that if you lose the code card it cannot be replaced. There is a solution.

On the earlier dash using the red programming key then the bypass code can be calculated from the recovered hex code. The first code is always the red key.

The bypass code card is calculated from the last five digits, where 1 to 9 remain the same andA=1,B=2,C=3,D=4,E=5,F=6 and 0=7

In the above if 00 00 01 42 F7 7F was the first code listed then 2F77F will give the bypass code. This would give 2=2, F=6, 7=7, 7=7, F=6.
The bypass code is therefore 26776.

If you have a Zedbull then the red key transponder code can be read from the key (this process in bikes using the separate immo box like the ST4S). The Zedbull will display it in the format 5F 00 00 ** ** ** ** 7D. It just moves the first digits to last, ignore the 7D. Using the info from the first post 80 42 EF FE thisneeds converting from Tiris (hex) to binary, thebinary reversed, and then converted back to hex. The reverse of the instruction in the first post.That will give 01 42 F7 7F, just use the last fivedigits to calculate the code

For the data from the likes of the 848/1098/1198 things differ. Reading the immo chip recovers the full 8 bytes of the transponder code in the format E6 00 00 00 00 xx xx xx.
This data needs converting for key programming and will give a format of 67 00 00 00 00 xx xx xx. To get this you convert bytes 1, 6, 7 & 8 to binary, reverse the binary and then exchange the positions of each digit. The 67 00 00 00 00 xx xx xx detail can then be programmed to a T5 transponder.

Code from key *****Update - process works*******
The process for the I2K immo system bikes like the 848/1098/1198 (2 black keys/code card) is slightly different. When the key is read by the likes of a Zedbull then the code differs to the above format for the earlier bikes. The code is displayed in the format C0 xx xx xx 06 00 00 00 not the 67 00 00 etc as would be expected. However, by using software tools I am able to calculate the hex code held in the immo chip for the key or keys. Using the above calculation information the bypass code can be calculated from the last 5 digits. This means that if you have 1 or 2 black keys but no code card then the bypass code can be back calculated from the key (a less intrusive route to taking the dash apart).
 

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Ducati Scrambler
I have posted this here as it may help others.
Read this about Ducati Immo Systems- https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjP2eHi_KWNAxXKVKQEHa0bApMQFnoECDkQAQ&url=https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10173096-0001.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1mdxFtQOiHpvSIkrpYSCdN&opi=89978449
This is not a bike I have worked on and have had to rely on the Digital Kaos forum for info.
The Ducati Scrambler uses the I2K-2 Immo system
The bike comes with two keys with sealed transponders.
The bike allows a user set PIN number - this PIN number is required for the immo bypass
The immo system is on the dash not the ECU.
The immo chip on the dash is a 24C16 and can be read using the same setup used to read the 848/1098/1198 dash.
I think I have identified where the keys codes are stored in the 24C16 .bin file.
At lines 0x500, 0x510 and 0x520 the data is repeated 3 times for what appears to be each key.
For example
0x500 - 85 2C 68 38 00 46 85 2C 68 38 00 46 85 2C 68 38
0x510 - 00 46 85 1F 72 38 00 46 85 1F 72 38 00 46 85 1F
0x520 - 72 38 00 46

So the keys are likely to be 85 2C 68 38 00 46 and 85 1F 72 38 00 46

Ignore the underlining, the forum does this for some reason.

At the moment I do not know how the code is programmed to a blank key is formatted from this data.

I would suggest dumping the .bin file from the 24C16 chip. Join the Digital Kaos forum and request help in:
1. Identifying the transponder codes
2. Converting the transponder codes to a format for use with the likes of a ZedBull
3. Identifying the PIN code in the .bin file


The info from Ducati is that if you lose both keys then you need new keys, new lockset and new dash - OUCH.

It looks doable but I cannot help any more at the moment.

Hope this helps
 
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I'm sure someone was asking about Scrambler Keys and Codes a few days ago but I can't find the post - looks like we need @Noobie the Sleuth to find it 👀
 
This video may be of use

In the two suspected transponder codes I believe that 85 2C 68 38 is user 0 and 85 1F 72 38 is user 1 and the 00 46 is a checksum. The second line 4D 49 4B 52 and third line 4F 4E in the video is a factory password for key programming.

I know nothing about these transponders.
 
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The info on Digital Kaos is the Scrambler uses the Transponder Texas Crypto TMS37145 ( 80-bit ) and requires a Tmpro (module-197) to program any keys.

This further reinforces the service in the eBay link is a good deal.
 
@tirabora I would remove the ignition lock and the dash. Then send them to the seller in the eBay link.
I would make contact with them first to ensure they can do it. I would also enquire if they can identify the PIN.
If they can, in return you will get two transponder keys and PIN. No need to buy new lockset and keys.
For £291.92 this is a good deal.
The locks kit alone is around £370.
 
@chrisw thank you, I did what you suggested. I got the bike running, but I must say it was not painless, price was higher (agreed on 320 but ended up being 330 + shipping). The timing and communication was not so smooth as hoped. But I understand he must be busy with other jobs.
Bike works great, but the display has a not nicely patched hole in the back (I guess where he drilled to access the chip) . I will have to think how to make it less visible and maybe more water proof.

I have mix feeling about recommend him to other, but as I don't have an alternative , maybe I would recommend him but with reserve.
Nevertheless, thank you , it did work!

Maybe I can ask you for some other recommendation, my fuel tank has a dent, I like to have it fix, do you recommend anybody in the London area where I can bring it to have it fix and repaint?

best,
Alessandro
 

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@chrisw thank you, I did what you suggested. I got the bike running, but I must say it was not painless, price was higher (agreed on 320 but ended up being 330 + shipping). The timing and communication was not so smooth as hoped. But I understand he must be busy with other jobs.
Bike works great, but the display has a not nicely patched hole in the back (I guess where he drilled to access the chip) . I will have to think how to make it less visible and maybe more water proof.

I have mix feeling about recommend him to other, but as I don't have an alternative , maybe I would recommend him but with reserve.
Nevertheless, thank you , it did work!

Maybe I can ask you for some other recommendation, my fuel tank has a dent, I like to have it fix, do you recommend anybody in the London area where I can bring it to have it fix and repaint?

best,
Alessandro
I understand that all is good now, but that repair to the unit is a feckin disgrace 👀
 
A bit Luddite on the access hole.
Perhaps fill it with black hot glue and put a sticker over it. Something like a tamperproof sticker to make it look OEM.

Good news on getting it going.
 
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Hi,
frankly if I knew where to make the hole and how to read the data, I would have preferred doing my self.
the cost and the result was not up to part.

i will share how much I know online so other people does not need to go through what I went through.

but all in all, I am glad my bike works fine.
 
Congratulations on getting it going again. And thank you for sharing the knowledge with the community, we are all stronger and better informed together.
 
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