iconic944ss
Elite Member
They do look interesting but the front hub looks to of been made for only a single disc so all your hard work going to twin discs might be down the pan?
750ss Cafe Racer. First time project
- Thread starter Flatline
- Start date
They do look interesting but the front hub looks to of been made for only a single disc so all your hard work going to twin discs might be down the pan?
Flatline
Active member
Update November 2012
Having decided to look at other colour options for the forks, I needed a way of seeing the end product without actually painting them
So I bought some shrink wrap, usually used for electrical wiring, and tried white and black
(Shame I can't use photoshop!!)
Right then, where's the red shrink wrap!!
Now for the calipers and discs
Having decided to look at other colour options for the forks, I needed a way of seeing the end product without actually painting them
So I bought some shrink wrap, usually used for electrical wiring, and tried white and black
(Shame I can't use photoshop!!)
Right then, where's the red shrink wrap!!
Now for the calipers and discs
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monster_998
New member
Clever idea with the shrink wrap :thumbs:
Black is definitely better than white and white actually looks better than I expected.
Black is definitely better than white and white actually looks better than I expected.
Flatline
Active member
Update November 2012. Frame
Decided to cut away some of the rear frame to give a less cluttered look
I will be welding a new part on to finish the "V" at the end of the lower part
May even go further and weld a new arm from the rear of the foot hanger up to the top rail and remove the back part.............ooeeeeeeeeer!
Decided to cut away some of the rear frame to give a less cluttered look
I will be welding a new part on to finish the "V" at the end of the lower part
May even go further and weld a new arm from the rear of the foot hanger up to the top rail and remove the back part.............ooeeeeeeeeer!
Flatline
Active member
Update November 2012. Mudguard
Having tried to buy a simple mudguard to fit the bike, and failed, I have resorted to cutting down the broken one from my Firestorm
The silver foil was on it as I had intended making a mold, but I have repaired it with fibreglass and filler
Once the bracked is made and it fits ok I will get another undamaged mudguard and cut it down
Having tried to buy a simple mudguard to fit the bike, and failed, I have resorted to cutting down the broken one from my Firestorm
The silver foil was on it as I had intended making a mold, but I have repaired it with fibreglass and filler
Once the bracked is made and it fits ok I will get another undamaged mudguard and cut it down
rockjock620
New member
I need to educate you on the finer points of mould production and GRP work in general. 
Think before you do the other frame mods, the old adage of measure twice cut once springs to mind. Do mock ups with dowel rod before you decide.
Looking good tho, must start mine soon...............
too busy burying people at the minute to concentrate
Think before you do the other frame mods, the old adage of measure twice cut once springs to mind. Do mock ups with dowel rod before you decide.
Looking good tho, must start mine soon...............
too busy burying people at the minute to concentrate
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Flatline
Active member
Update December 12
Just been doing some mock ups for the exhaust, and which lines look good
I think I will stay away from the usual reverse cone/Dunstall look
Have found a 9" or 16" stubby exhaust can, supplied un-chromed
Thinking about this sort of thing, without the long outlet
I just hope the foam will be able to take the heat
Just been doing some mock ups for the exhaust, and which lines look good
I think I will stay away from the usual reverse cone/Dunstall look
Have found a 9" or 16" stubby exhaust can, supplied un-chromed
Thinking about this sort of thing, without the long outlet
I just hope the foam will be able to take the heat
Flatline
Active member
Been tyring to get the exhausts into the right position to allow me to get the link pipe made
This is my first attempt, using a bar fixed under the seat. Something not right about this set up: The pipe is a bit too vertical
Thought about putting the frame link back in...........hmmm, not bad
This is more like it..........Temporarily fitted the link to finish the frame "V" where I cut it
Just a variation using red
I like it better in black though that may change when the final bracket is designed and made
Now I need to design the bracket and make one...........all I need is a cnc machine for my workshop :eek2
Also, thinking about cutting the end of the frame off, (in front of where the oringinal frame part connected)
(Trying to clean that area up will be a pain in the arse and probably never look correct)
Then have a bent tube welded on the inside of the frame to mirror the curve of the seat (most weld it to the original frame)
This means I can still fit the indicators in the ends of the frame
You will also notice the front mudguard laying on the rear tyre
Looking at this sort of thing for a rear mudguard, a bit wider though
Hope you like it
This is my first attempt, using a bar fixed under the seat. Something not right about this set up: The pipe is a bit too vertical
Thought about putting the frame link back in...........hmmm, not bad
This is more like it..........Temporarily fitted the link to finish the frame "V" where I cut it
Just a variation using red
I like it better in black though that may change when the final bracket is designed and made
Now I need to design the bracket and make one...........all I need is a cnc machine for my workshop :eek2
Also, thinking about cutting the end of the frame off, (in front of where the oringinal frame part connected)
(Trying to clean that area up will be a pain in the arse and probably never look correct)
Then have a bent tube welded on the inside of the frame to mirror the curve of the seat (most weld it to the original frame)
This means I can still fit the indicators in the ends of the frame
You will also notice the front mudguard laying on the rear tyre
Looking at this sort of thing for a rear mudguard, a bit wider though
Hope you like it
bobsyeruncle
Well-known member
Been tyring to get the exhausts into the right position to allow me to get the link pipe made
This is my first attempt, using a bar fixed under the seat. Something not right about this set up: The pipe is a bit too vertical
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img849/8895/pc203188.jpg[/qimg]
Thought about putting the frame link back in...........hmmm, not bad
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img856/1440/p1253197.jpg[/qimg]
This is more like it..........Temporarily fitted the link to finish the frame "V" where I cut it
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img705/5990/p1253202.jpg[/qimg]
Just a variation using red
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img689/9410/p1253204.jpg[/qimg]
I like it better in black though that may change when the final bracket is designed and made
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img5/7314/p1263211.jpg[/qimg]
[qimg]http://imageshack.us/a/img585/5823/p1253206.jpg[/qimg]
Now I need to design the bracket and make one...........all I need is a cnc machine for my workshop :eek2
Also, thinking about cutting the end of the frame off, (in front of where the oringinal frame part connected)
(Trying to clean that area up will be a pain in the arse and probably never look correct)
Then have a bent tube welded on the inside of the frame to mirror the curve of the seat (most weld it to the original frame)
This means I can still fit the indicators in the ends of the frame
You will also notice the front mudguard laying on the rear tyre
Looking at this sort of thing for a rear mudguard, a bit wider though
Hope you like it
Looking great. Prefer the black bracket myself.
Flatline
Active member
Update January 2013. Various
Stripped down the front calipers
Spraying the footrest hangers in the paint booth
Cut the frame at the end
Shaped some frame parts to make the "V"
You may remember I bought some indicators to fit in the end of the frame: Voila!
Will check what it looks like with the frame joined to the end rather than as a "V"
Stripped down the front calipers
Spraying the footrest hangers in the paint booth
Cut the frame at the end
Shaped some frame parts to make the "V"
You may remember I bought some indicators to fit in the end of the frame: Voila!
Will check what it looks like with the frame joined to the end rather than as a "V"
MartinW
New member
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iconic944ss
Elite Member
It's an interesting build, that's for sure.
A few comments,
Some stainless bolts in your calipers would look nice and be low maintenance, although I gather steel or titanium bolts are recommended for the mounting bolts.
I'm a little worried about the visibility of your rear indicators, tucked under the seat some 20" above road height. A signal might be missed by drivers, unless they are nice bright LED's?
Number plate mount is still to come I guess but a plate light will be needed unless you are only going for a daytime MOT?
Likewise a diddly reflector will be needed somewhere, sadly. I remember putting my 916 style tail unit on for a while, which I didn't realise is without any reflector. The good guys in the bike shop (sadly, now long gone), stuck a tricolour reflector on the number plate an then passed the MOT. Not sure it would happen in too many garages these days.
Good luck & keep the piccies coming please!
A few comments,
Some stainless bolts in your calipers would look nice and be low maintenance, although I gather steel or titanium bolts are recommended for the mounting bolts.
I'm a little worried about the visibility of your rear indicators, tucked under the seat some 20" above road height. A signal might be missed by drivers, unless they are nice bright LED's?
Number plate mount is still to come I guess but a plate light will be needed unless you are only going for a daytime MOT?
Likewise a diddly reflector will be needed somewhere, sadly. I remember putting my 916 style tail unit on for a while, which I didn't realise is without any reflector. The good guys in the bike shop (sadly, now long gone), stuck a tricolour reflector on the number plate an then passed the MOT. Not sure it would happen in too many garages these days.
Good luck & keep the piccies coming please!
schrimy
New member
Hello Mr. Flatline.
I too have a 750 ss although mine is staying more or less standard, just needs a bit of tlc. I was reading the thread and noticed that you had polished the bottoms of the forks, you know the bit that the calipers bolt to! I just wondered how you had done this....wet nDry, brillo pad???? fancy doing likewise to mine. Also I did wonder what you had done with the origional cans as mine are a bit rusty.........open to offers??
Thanks.
Chris.
I too have a 750 ss although mine is staying more or less standard, just needs a bit of tlc. I was reading the thread and noticed that you had polished the bottoms of the forks, you know the bit that the calipers bolt to! I just wondered how you had done this....wet nDry, brillo pad???? fancy doing likewise to mine. Also I did wonder what you had done with the origional cans as mine are a bit rusty.........open to offers??
Thanks.
Chris.
239desmo
Is it nearly bedtime?
Some Autosol and a cloth or two and it will bring them up very quickly.
Surprising the difference after one application.
I use an old toothbrush to work the Autosol into the metal and then wipe it off and then simply load a cloth with Autosol (don't keep using a "clean" bit of cloth on application as it works better when the cloth is black and full of the cream) and go over it again.
Using a clean cloth for a final wipe/polish makes a difference to result.
Wear latex gloves though as your hands will be black for days otherwise.
schrimy
New member
Sounds good to me. I didnt know if the fork bottoms had that strange silver paint on that other bits seem to have. It appears to be welded on except of course for the bits you want it to stay on.
I'll go and have a look, if they are just plain alloy then it wont be much of a problem.
Ta!
rockjock620
New member
[qimg]http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/1244/p1283219.jpg[/qimg]
Will check what it looks like with the frame joined to the end rather than as a "V"[/b][/QUOTE]
Confused - there is a pic further up with these bits already in red in place isn't there?
Martin, that's a better line you've penned in, I was looking at similar on mine.
Will check what it looks like with the frame joined to the end rather than as a "V"[/b][/QUOTE]
Confused - there is a pic further up with these bits already in red in place isn't there?
Martin, that's a better line you've penned in, I was looking at similar on mine.
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239desmo
Is it nearly bedtime?
Personally I would just run a straight bit of tube instead of the "penned" tube with a "kink" in it.
Think it would look cleaner and easier to follow the line of the exhaust. Just extend the cross tubes accordingly and maybe extend hanger bolt if need be but possibly fine where it is.
Change of seat unit may dictate where the footpegs need to be anyway.
Flatline
Active member
Thanks to all for comments, they are appreciated
Iconic944: indicators are just a mock up, rear light has clear lens at bottom, will be changing as many as bolts possible to black
Martin: Thanks for that, I just wonder if the exhaust hanger would be a bit long?
239desmo, I will certainly be looking at the option I mentioned, as did you, of extending a straight bar to the end instead of creating the "V".
This will keep the hangers as short as possible
Rockjock: The "V" is taped in place, is that what you mean?
Schrimy: Pm sent re zorsts. I used a bench grinder wire wheel and one on a drill
Next is to get the link pipes done, once the zorsts are in the correct position
Found someone in Leeds that can bend the pipes
Iconic944: indicators are just a mock up, rear light has clear lens at bottom, will be changing as many as bolts possible to black
Martin: Thanks for that, I just wonder if the exhaust hanger would be a bit long?
239desmo, I will certainly be looking at the option I mentioned, as did you, of extending a straight bar to the end instead of creating the "V".
This will keep the hangers as short as possible
Rockjock: The "V" is taped in place, is that what you mean?
Schrimy: Pm sent re zorsts. I used a bench grinder wire wheel and one on a drill
Next is to get the link pipes done, once the zorsts are in the correct position
Found someone in Leeds that can bend the pipes
rockjock620
New member
No Phil, in post 44 above the first three photos all have different pieces of tube around that point, somewhat confusing............
239desmo
Is it nearly bedtime?
Not wanting to teach my grannie how to sook eggs but I assume you have tried sitting on the seat to check the ergonomics of reach to bars and where your feet end up?
If your seat is a couple of cm lower than before it could make a huge difference to whether you can actually ride the bike with the pegs in the unaltered position.
I spent probably a couple of hours working out what I could live with and where the pegs needed to be.
If your seat is a couple of cm lower than before it could make a huge difference to whether you can actually ride the bike with the pegs in the unaltered position.
I spent probably a couple of hours working out what I could live with and where the pegs needed to be.
MartinW
New member
I drew it with a straight line but the structure looked too 'big' If you used the kinked line you could move the pipes up higher (and so closer) and have shorter mounts (Maybe in a 'v' rather than a strap, to give a firmer mount - you could follow the line of the triangulating pieces right 'through' the bottom rail) Hey, it's your bike, do what looks good to you
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Flatline
Active member
Update March 2013
Done a bit more to the DuCafe
Welded on the short support tube under the seat
Finally decided on the position of the exhaust
Wanted it to be a bit higher but the link pipe would interfere with the boot
Will need to re-design the brackets holding the exhaust but its good enough for the fabricator to make/bend a link pipe
Will get it away to the fabricators soon
Next up is the wiring, just ordered shrink wrap so ready to start cutting and connecting
Done a bit more to the DuCafe
Welded on the short support tube under the seat
Finally decided on the position of the exhaust
Wanted it to be a bit higher but the link pipe would interfere with the boot
Will need to re-design the brackets holding the exhaust but its good enough for the fabricator to make/bend a link pipe
Will get it away to the fabricators soon
Next up is the wiring, just ordered shrink wrap so ready to start cutting and connecting
