Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
Right hand rear-set mounted - just not too keen on the white reservoir so might have a look what's available. Brembo do a smoked one but the pipe comes out at 45 degrees and won't fit the preformed tube which fits nicely. I will ponder for a while
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Shuntit just be a length of clear pipe a la:-
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Shut it big noseHmmmInteresting.
I have one on the YR5 like that but don't think it would suit on this and fiddley to fill
Fairy snuff matey, it’s your baby, but it’s what I’d expect to see on a ‘retro, resto,one off, hybrid, up-scaled model’ of a Kawasaki racer rebuild. It weighs less than a reservoir and if you need a few varying sized syringes to fill it with I think I have a selection in a drawer somewhere.I have one on the YR5 like that but don't think it would suit on this and fiddley to fill
Keep up the good work.
Borrowed Dave's machine shop https://www.muttsnuts2strokes.co.uk/ yesterday to start working on the clutch mechanism with my mate Mark to do the machining while I had coffee & biscuits and watched. A big thanks to both of them 
I just need them to take some beer vouchers 
for helping which is proving difficult, but I'll get there somehow
We didn't know where we would end up but as each stage progressed we ended up with more progress than expected. Still a bit to work out - but getting there with another major hurdle now underway
1st was drilling out my pilot hole so it could be clocked on the lathe...
Then machining the recess for the actuator block insert...
All done...
Then onto the insert which will carry the Clutch Pull mechanism and puller pin, this is the back face...
And the front face, first diameter is for the Clutch Puller body and the second recess just 1mm smaller on diameter is for a double lip Shaft Seal...
Now mocked up on the bike ready for the next head scratching session...
I just need them to take some beer vouchers for helping which is proving difficult, but I'll get there somehow We didn't know where we would end up but as each stage progressed we ended up with more progress than expected. Still a bit to work out - but getting there with another major hurdle now underway
1st was drilling out my pilot hole so it could be clocked on the lathe...
Then machining the recess for the actuator block insert...
All done...
Then onto the insert which will carry the Clutch Pull mechanism and puller pin, this is the back face...
And the front face, first diameter is for the Clutch Puller body and the second recess just 1mm smaller on diameter is for a double lip Shaft Seal...
Now mocked up on the bike ready for the next head scratching session...
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Poor old Queen didn't see it finished. Wonder if Charlie Boy will.
No - it's as the original bike was, although the 'a' was hidden by the weld - I'm having second thoughts of welding the outer perimeter though and I might weld the internal instead - or screw it on from behind and gasket it - in both instances it will be forever 'aki'
She's not a member here, nor is Charlie - so I've only got to finish it for Wills and Harry - where've you been anyhoo: you must be watching this thread to pop up just like that........
Get your chizel out and make a slogan that makes sense.
"Akin to an 80's replica" would look good.
there for , 
there for 
Don't need to be a member to looky.She's not a member here, nor is Charlie - so I've only got to finish it for Wills and Harry - where've you been anyhoo: you must be watching this thread to pop up just like that........
Always watching...
Shut it big NoseGet your chizel out and make a slogan that makes sense.
"Akin to an 80's replica" would look good.
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She's deadDon't need to be a member to looky.
Always watching...
don't you watch the news
You just can't help some people.
If you machined a groove into the back face that could take a suitable O-ring you could screw that boss to the clutch cover from the inside. That way you could easily remove that part & providing the threaded holes are blind & "inside" the O-ring, the joint would be oil tight. Just an option.
Yep - O-Ring or thin gasket would both suffice although it will never need removing so might get it welded, the screws could back out into the clutch face plate which was my concern, and yes you could lock tight them but just to be on the safe side weld is favoured at the moment. Will have a think - keep any suggestion coming
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Only 5mm clearance behind the case, 3mm is taken by clutch movement leaving 2mm. Casing isn’t thick enough for countersunk screws where it’s machined flat. I remember Mark saying we could hold it temporarily with M3 screws to work out the rest of the mechanism prior to welding but a decent size screw to hold permanently doesn’t look possible.
You love a bit of JB Weld...
You love a bit of JB Weld...
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Forgot to clean it offHave you been jizzin over that chain
Wouldn't it be fookin' awful if once finished, it went out on the road?