It had them, I swapped them out as the larger ones are 1 Allen key size bigger to torque them easier without rounding
Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
Shallow torx head ? TitaniumIt had them, I swapped them out as the larger ones are 1 Allen key size bigger to torque them easier without rounding
No need, it's underneath - used normal ones on the Cam Chain Tensioner too for the same reason
I've been polishing the dash Ali bits over the last week in between fitting doors but cut my finger and thumb (like a papercut: the worst!) so polishing on hold for a couple of days 
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Heading to see Chad soon in Hull for a couple of bits of welding when he's free.
Tonight I finally found a Temp Sensor on-line that works on the Cylinder Head off a Porche 914. Having to import one from the USA as here the same part here is £65 instead of the £36 including VAT and Post off Amazon USA.
The original sensor switched at a set temp to tell the DTI gizmo the engine was too hot, the 914 sensor triggers at the same temp. I'm wiring direct to a red temp warning light on the dash.
It's the same M10 fine thread too which is nice
Back to oiling the doors for now
.Heading to see Chad soon in Hull for a couple of bits of welding when he's free.
Tonight I finally found a Temp Sensor on-line that works on the Cylinder Head off a Porche 914. Having to import one from the USA as here the same part here is £65 instead of the £36 including VAT and Post off Amazon USA.
The original sensor switched at a set temp to tell the DTI gizmo the engine was too hot, the 914 sensor triggers at the same temp. I'm wiring direct to a red temp warning light on the dash.
It's the same M10 fine thread too which is nice
Back to oiling the doors for now
Finally got back to Chad's at CC Engineering in Hull on Monday, had his coffee and cigs while he welded the strengthening piece to the cut down sprocket cover and the Clutch Mechanism Boss to the Clutch Cover.
Boss is welded on the inside for neatness, now ready for final polish...
Weld being machined back to give the full actuation clearance required...
Support piece welded in place and final shaping complete ready for polish...
Now polished and fitted...
Boss is welded on the inside for neatness, now ready for final polish...
Weld being machined back to give the full actuation clearance required...
Support piece welded in place and final shaping complete ready for polish...
Now polished and fitted...
Are you polishing the stuff at home, if so please share the technique & materials, or is someone doing it in a workshop for you?
Doing it all in the kitchen sink by hand - not going too blingy with a mirror polish as it won't suit the bike. I did finish a few small bits like the Cam Cover End Caps on a mates buffing wheel, but it really isn't necessary to get the finish I required.
If rough I start with 120 to 180 grit Wet & Dry - the Clutch Cover had a gouge in it about 0.5mm deep and that got it out reasonably quickly.
Generally I start with 400 Wet & Dry, followed by 600, 800 and 1200. I find it quicker to use many different grades to get to the finish required. Plenty of water to prevent the paper from clogging. I use a small alloy block as a sanding block for flat surfaces and fingers for anything else.
You will see earlier for the timing cover I used an Electric Powerfile to re shape the whole profile, this was used initially on the Chain Cover too where the support was welded on the visible surface.
I've been finishing off with a wipe and buff over with T-Cut followed by PEEK metal polish (available from Tesco and much cheaper and better than Solvol Autosol in my opinion).
If I wanted it a little duller still I would do the above and then flatten it back with Scotch-bright to dull it off but it's important to get it to a reasonable sheen first. Finally protect the finish with Mr Sheen Furniture Polish which stops the aluminium oxidising.
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You're getting mixed up with your dusty collectionWhatever the colour, nobody's ever riding that fooker.
Yep, that’s restoring
next step up from polishing - you’ll get there one day I’m sure 
Carbs fitted, but my new Mikalor clamps were just a tad too wide at 18mm, and they aren't available in a width I require so just ordered some normal 12mm stainless hose-clips 
Having prepped the Carb Tops, finishing with a clean with Isopropanol and prepping with etching primer, then finishing with Auto Glym Engine Lacquer with an oven anneal: the paint still cracked off a little near the screws and on a couple of the edges
At least I have easy access to remove them to try again
Now I can measure up to see what length Bell Mouths will fit without clashing with the frame rails...
Having prepped the Carb Tops, finishing with a clean with Isopropanol and prepping with etching primer, then finishing with Auto Glym Engine Lacquer with an oven anneal: the paint still cracked off a little near the screws and on a couple of the edges
At least I have easy access to remove them to try again
Now I can measure up to see what length Bell Mouths will fit without clashing with the frame rails...
My temp sensor arrived from the US, but having fitted the carbs I couldn't get the adapter into the cylinder head
So off with the carbs, adapter threads cleaned and then fitted - sensor in and carbs back on - which are a bloody struggle
So off with the carbs, adapter threads cleaned and then fitted - sensor in and carbs back on - which are a bloody struggle
Soooo, looks like my original Bell-Mouths aren't available anymore and the only ones that are available will clash with the frame on one side or the other (frame being different on each side).
Mikuni do them from 15mm length up to around 70mm but all lengths clash either on the right or left frame rail due to them being a larger funnel diameter at the rear than mine by around 10mm.
I roughed up the worst condition one to see the extent of the dents more clearly - then set about gently tapping the dints out from the inside with a piece of steel bar that had been domed on the end. The alloy is so thin I needed the dents out so I didn't risk rubbing all the way through the side wall.
I then rigged up a clamp system to hold it on a piece of threaded rod that I could insert into my drill to spin it to bring the finish back with wet & dry and scotch-bright.
This is how the one above turned out...
My clips came today for the carbs so I fitted those, then fitted the refurbished Bell-Mouths too - good enough for now and probably good enough anyway
Mikuni do them from 15mm length up to around 70mm but all lengths clash either on the right or left frame rail
due to them being a larger funnel diameter at the rear than mine by around 10mm.I roughed up the worst condition one to see the extent of the dents more clearly - then set about gently tapping the dints out from the inside with a piece of steel bar that had been domed on the end. The alloy is so thin I needed the dents out so I didn't risk rubbing all the way through the side wall.
I then rigged up a clamp system to hold it on a piece of threaded rod that I could insert into my drill to spin it to bring the finish back with wet & dry and scotch-bright.
This is how the one above turned out...
My clips came today for the carbs so I fitted those, then fitted the refurbished Bell-Mouths too - good enough for now and probably good enough anyway
Wow. Nice work.
Very impressive
Looking really good chief
The amount of work involved is amazing - when you add up the hours and parts, it's a project of love with a stunning end result