Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica

Do you have to put extra oil in it when you fit an oil cooler?
And
Does your oil cooler have a thermostat or is it through flowing from the get go?
 
Do you have to put extra oil in it when you fit an oil cooler?
And
Does your oil cooler have a thermostat or is it through flowing from the get go?
My engine is sloping forwards 18 degrees like the original KR1000 where the GPZ1100 road bike sloped at 9 degrees so oil level is a bit of a guess for me as my sight glass is higher due to the extra slope.

I have gone for low to just over in the sight glass and it took 4000cc instead of 3700cc as the standard bike which had an oil cooler from the factory.

You should need extra for an oil cooler generally but with no one way valves the oil drops back anyway, unless your oil cooler pipes are both top mounted, you will still get drain back on the feed and return lines. Mine is straight through with no thermostat.

With the increased engine angle of my engine the oil light triggers at 2000cc when filling (and that's on an oil level float so I'm quite happy with my guestimate).
 
Looks good, and I thought you had fitted a small rear light (possibly in 2016?)

If not saw this in the Carlos Fandango catalogue, a couple of pages after those headlamp covers….

IMG_0090.jpeg


It’s listed under “Breaking the ice with the sharp end of technology…”

It ideal imho.
 
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Looks good, and I thought you had fitted a small rear light (possibly in 2016?)

If not saw this in the Carlos Fandango catalogue, a couple of pages after those headlamp covers….

View attachment 100622

It’s listed under “Breaking the ice with the sharp end of technology…”

It ideal imho.
Oh, and I have a hidden brake light fitted last year during the 19 month build :)(y)
 
So last week I deigned a little bung to get around the fitment issues due to the cable clip and bolt being in the way.

All it needed was a 13mm aluminium plug with one end turned down to 12.5mm for a 6mm depth to fall short of the main crank bearing oil feed hole in the oil gallery (actually needed to be 12.45mm in the end for a nice transitional fit).

My mate turned one up for me and then I attacked it yesterday with a hacksaw to leave the required quadrant in place which prevents the plug blowing out. The stack height I worked to leaves 0.2mm gap between the fitted case and the bung so there's no danger of it holding the case off from seating.


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I strapped the bike to the ceiling to lean it over so oil didn't spill when I took the Alt Cover off - saved draining it again!


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Kawasaki KR1000 Replica 935.webp



This orientation of the plug gives plenty of clearance to any clash points on the cases cable assembly...


Kawasaki KR1000 Replica 936.webp



Gently tapped into place...


Kawasaki KR1000 Replica 937.webp



4 bikes now waiting for TAX and sunny weather if this Winter ever ends 🥶


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So last week I deigned a little bung to get around the fitment issues due to the cable clip and bolt being in the way.

All it needed was a 13mm aluminium plug with one end turned down to 12.5mm for a 6mm depth to fall short of the main crank bearing oil feed hole in the oil gallery (actually needed to be 12.45mm in the end for a nice transitional fit).

My mate turned one up for me and then I attacked it yesterday with a hacksaw to leave the required quadrant in place which prevents the plug blowing out. The stack height I worked to leaves 0.2mm gap between the fitted case and the bung so there's no danger of it holding the case off from seating.


View attachment 100761



I strapped the bike to the ceiling to lean it over so oil didn't spill when I took the Alt Cover off - saved draining it again!


View attachment 100762


View attachment 100763


This orientation of the plug gives plenty of clearance to any clash points on the cases cable assembly...


View attachment 100764


Gently tapped into place...


View attachment 100765


4 bikes now waiting for TAX and sunny weather if this Winter ever ends 🥶


View attachment 100766
Can't believe I'm saying this .....but just need a bit of rain ....clear the bloody salt away .....then should be good to go .....
 
Can't believe I'm saying this .....but just need a bit of rain ....clear the bloody salt away .....then should be good to go .....
Can't change my number plate until it's taxed so on @Chizel - Founding Father s birthday it will be taxed (1st April) and I'll post all the documents off, hopefully get it back in a week or two for it's first bimble out... (y)
 
Can't change my number plate until it's taxed so on @Chizel - Founding Father s birthday it will be taxed (1st April) and I'll post all the documents off, hopefully get it back in a week or two for it's first bimble out... (y)
You must be gagging to give it a run out ....will it handle ....? ...that's the question I guess ... Or more accurately...will there be enough adjustment to bring the handling in ....
 
You must be gagging to give it a run out ....will it handle ....? ...that's the question I guess ...

It should at least handle as well as the original bike what with all the modern suspension I would hope - and the frame is stiffer than the original one made in T45 with a slightly thicker wall section than I needed. The original won a World Endurance Championship, this only has to get to about 4 North Yorkshire Cafe's so it will be fine :)(y)
 
I'm guessing the headstock angle is preserved from the original frame ...so that should make for a neutral/slow steering... Better that way ....
 
I'm guessing the headstock angle is preserved from the original frame ...so that should make for a neutral/slow steering... Better that way ....
Nope, 26 degrees as the original race bike - all the geometry is as the race bike as apposed the the 29 degrees of a GPz1100 .....
 
Original race bike Wheelbase 1450mm - mine is slightly longer at 1470mm due to the longer swingarm.
Shouldn’t be too twitchy or need a steering damper in that case.
Will probably be good on the road but a bit slow steering for the track.
 
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