New rubber round things

mike s

New member
I'm after thoughts, opinions and recommendations on tyres for the 916, mine will need new front and rear very very soon and I want a nice decent pair of reasonably sticky but reasonably hardwearing radials, (i'm no road racer, I don't need super sticky trackday stuff, just decent and balanced with decent wear).
I'm very much a fan of Avon tyres, since buying my ZXR many years ago which had Avon's fitted, i've used Avon almost exclusively but I know that all bikes have tyres that work well and tyres that aren't so great so any comments appreciated thanks.
i.e. what do you use and do you like em?

Also, 180/55 rear or 190/50, (cos I can and the kid in me is going, cor blimey, that's a fat tyre mister) :)
I imagine the 190 being a wee bit lower profiled will lower the back slightly and alter the steering, enough to be noticeable in general riding use? I'm guessing 180 selection will be better though and pair deals more plentiful?
 
180/55 or 190/50? 180 will turn in quicker but not so fat. I'm running Continental Road Attack II, 3.5k out of back and double that out of front compared to Michelin Pilot Power's 2.1k back and about 3.5k front. Dont know what sort of mileage you expecting to get out of it, I've read posts people claiming 6-7k :eek: out of back tyre, not sure whether they exaggerating or am doing something wrong :rolleyes:. For me (no track days) Contis are good enough compromise, price wary between 200-240 a pair + fitting
 
They're another I considered as it happens, I like the tread pattern, (i know, sad isn't it), :)
I've had a contiforce on the zxr and that was good for a relatively budget continental.
Do you find the road attacks good in the wet?

meant to mention, I consider 3k and up for a rear decent wear for a good all round road tyre.
Would love to know what people are getting 6-7 from, I didn't think even the early cheng shin bakelite style chinese tyres would manage that!
 
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Round, black, correct pressure and they're all pretty much the same. Speed of turn in? Lower the rear and affect the steering? You're on the road - it makes no real difference. Wide tyres cost more and look butch(er). I've run (very) part worn Supercorsa ex track day tyres in the wet and they handle.
 
every time a tyre thread comes up a keep banging on bout racer scrubs tyres being the ones to buy..ye get awesome tyres for bout 80 quid...so thats 3 sets o tyres to the one set that youve been quoted. dont understand why peeps pay 240 odd for a set for the road when these tyres are available, vitually brand new and the chicken strips have been removed for ye already!

the ones i use are dunlop d211's..great wearing tyre and the set on my 748 have done about 2 thousand miles already and still looking good.
ive ran 180's and 190's and to be honest you wont be able to tell the difference.
 
180's are marginally cheaper and easier to get rid of the chicken strips on :D

Handling is personal preference, ran 180's on my 996 and the 749 is 180 anyway
 
People say that all modern tyres are the same... I beg to differ.

A road-oriented tyre will have a different compound, designed to warm up quicker and possibly containing more silica for better wet grip.

The downside of the quick warm up is that the tyre may not stand up well to running at prolonged high temperatures, like you would experience on a track.

If you only ever ride at 60mph plus on sunny days, this won't be a concern, but if you start your ride in a built up area, ride in the wet, etc. you might prefer having grip at the start of your ride. Conversely if you have tyre-warmers and know you'll be flying after 2 laps of Knockhill, good grip a lower temperatures might not be that important.

Dual compound tyres add another element... if you are going on a touring holiday and the first bit is 1000 miles of motorway do you want a square tyre when you get there?

There IS a lot of marketing BS involved in selling tyres, with the latest tread pattern, blah blah, but there are also fundamental differences between tyres, a balance between life, wet and dry grip and also price that you need to think about.
 
They're another I considered as it happens, I like the tread pattern, (i know, sad isn't it), :)
I've had a contiforce on the zxr and that was good for a relatively budget continental.
Do you find the road attacks good in the wet?

meant to mention, I consider 3k and up for a rear decent wear for a good all round road tyre.
Would love to know what people are getting 6-7 from, I didn't think even the early cheng shin bakelite style chinese tyres would manage that!

Cant tell you what they like in the wet, my bike never seen that much rain that I could pass opinion on it. Continental banging on about dual compound, great in wet conditions but like Miles said they would say something like that anyway. However, dry conditions in my experience, sticks like s***.

As for turning in speed and not been able to tell the difference; 749 and 999, apart the obvious not great difference. Many riders on Ducatisti pointed out 999 being "lazy" into corner and one of them mounted 180 specifically because of this. Guess what happened?

No reviewer of 749 (all of them I could find) missed to point out the difference in turning speed, comparing to 999, due to back tyre profile.
 
People say that all modern tyres are the same... I beg to differ........................................

..................................................There IS a lot of marketing BS involved in selling tyres, with the latest tread pattern, blah blah, but there are also fundamental differences between tyres, a balance between life, wet and dry grip and also price that you need to think about.

You might beg to differ but it's all BS in REAL terms as you acknowledge in the last sentence.

Last years "must have" road/race/ultra grip to die for is now suddenly "touring rubber"?!? BS of the highest order and some people fall for it. I used Diablos when they first came out and there was "nothing better". They were/are brilliant tyres, and if it's still the same compound, same size and same pressures then it's not now a poor tyre. Or a harder compound for touring.

OP is talking about road manners not track performance - here there is a world of difference granted. I can think of only one guy I know who might make better use of a "better road " tyre on the road, in fact he's better on ANY tyre and on most bikes than anyone I know.

Most people just are not good enough even to overpower/outride stock rubber. All this road tyre talk is fundamentally for pub banter and posing points.

Choose one with a pattern you like and at a cost and availability to suit you, fit them, take fifty miles to scrub them in and just ride. No problems :) 2p.
 
I read this thread with great interest......
The monster from new came with Battleaxe 16's, rear bald at 1800 miles including running in!!!:eek: Then went BT23, rear bald at 2300 miles so I am looking at a tyre that will last a bit longer and still stick!! I do ride in all conditions so wet weather grip is important....I was surprised at the lack of mileage from BT23's or am I just riding the bike wrong, christ its making less than 100bhp so should a rear not last say 4k miles???
Might put some Ching Sen "easy sliders" on.....no grip but they will last 10k miles!!!:eek:
 
You might beg to differ but it's all BS in REAL terms as you acknowledge in the last sentence.

No, it's not ALL BS... just the fact that there are different compounds and some tyres last longer than others (with the same bike / rider) should be enough of a clue to that. Certainly the marketing department works overdrive because it's expensive to design and test a new carcass, but fairly cheap to cut some different slots in the rubber and think up a new name. But it's a huge mistake to think that all tyres are going to give you the same levels of grip in the dry, the wet, the cold, the warm and at prolonged high speeds vs roadgoing (i.e. fairly slow, punctuated with the odd bit of fast) speeds.

I guarantee that anyone on this thread will be able to overpower your front tyre, from a cold start with 2 mins of slow road riding, just by trying an emergency stop on a cold, slippery winter road.

If different tread/compounds don't work, how do you explain the fitment and effectiveness of winter tyres? Even a cursory glance down the tyre rack at your local tyre fitter / dealer will be enough to show that there are different cross sectional profiles. Race-oriented tyres have more of a V-shape and road biased tyres will be more of a U.

Once the tyres are warm and at their operating temperature it's a different matter, but the problem is that the trackday oriented compounds never get up to their correct operating temperature if you're riding on the road in the winter 6 months of the year. Add in a sparse tread pattern that doesn't shift much surface water, some fierce non-ABS front brakes and you have a potential recipe for disaster.
 
I read this thread with great interest......
The monster from new came with Battleaxe 16's, rear bald at 1800 miles including running in!!!:eek: Then went BT23, rear bald at 2300 miles so I am looking at a tyre that will last a bit longer and still stick!! I do ride in all conditions so wet weather grip is important....I was surprised at the lack of mileage from BT23's or am I just riding the bike wrong, christ its making less than 100bhp so should a rear not last say 4k miles???
Might put some Ching Sen "easy sliders" on.....no grip but they will last 10k miles!!!:eek:

I've have experienced faster tyre wear in the wet. In my opinion there is considerable difference in tyre characteristics. The difference in warm-up times and wet grip between a Michelin Macadam and a BT016 is great but both have been touted as THE tyre within living memory. Most modern tyres are phenomenal but can react differently to similiar situations. And I think the torque of a v-twin eats tyres.:)
 
Would love to know what people are getting 6-7 from, I didn't think even the early cheng shin bakelite style chinese tyres would manage that!
I got 6,500 out of the rear on my 998 - t'was a Michelin Pilot Power. I don't ride slowly, always enjoy making good progress and love the twisties. I think it depends how smooth you are.
 
My rubbers lasted all last season. OOOPS that was because both bikes were ill with gravel rash :)
 
I've ridden a great variety of bikes over a good number of years and you can certainly tell tyre differences in cold and in wet conditions, once warmed unless you're pushing things theres little to tell.
As far as riding, i'm too much of a boring old fart now to believe I need super icky sticky mega racing rubber glue compound and i'm not so tight fisted that wear rates take priority over grip, I consider myself 'grown up' enough to believe I can have a decent balance of both, 'with a cool tread pattern to boot' :P
I know this is an emotive subject, I had a ZZR years ago that belonged to a friend previously, he exclusively used Pirelli MT75's and loved them, I thought they were a pig in the wet, white lined like a bugger and never made me feel very confident, dry, they were superb.
On the cheaper end, I went through about three sets of Tomahawk (middle compound), I think they were road / race / slick? they used to give me about 3k on the rear, 4ish on the front and gripped like a super grippy thing in all conditions, then sadly, they went belly up and vanished, (they were re-casts, (not the same as re-treads but not getting into the specifics here), which I think ultimately did for them, shame really, they were great tyres and a great price.
Then, about 3 years ago, i rode a friends Ninja 6R on Maxxis and I thought they were bloody awful, it was a very very cold day but they felt sort of vague rather than non grippy even after a 50 mile ride, I understand some of the Maxxis are good, i've read good reviews in mags but that experience has put me off them completely.
I've tried Battlax before too and never been massively impressed by them though I know they were once, the tyre.
I'll likely wind up with Conti or Avon as i've had good experiences with both brands but never having had a Duc before i wondered if there was an overall popular choice for them.

every time a tyre thread comes up a keep banging on bout racer scrubs tyres being the ones to buy..ye get awesome tyres for bout 80 quid...so thats 3 sets o tyres to the one set that youve been quoted. dont understand why peeps pay 240 odd for a set for the road when these tyres are available, vitually brand new and the chicken strips have been removed for ye already!

Out of curiosity, where do you get these?

There IS a lot of marketing BS involved in selling tyres, with the latest tread pattern, blah blah, but there are also fundamental differences between tyres, a balance between life, wet and dry grip and also price that you need to think about.

I do ride in the wet so decent wet grip is important as well as longevity and dry use.

Cant tell you what they like in the wet, my bike never seen that much rain that I could pass opinion on it. Continental banging on about dual compound, great in wet conditions but like Miles said they would say something like that anyway. However, dry conditions in my experience, sticks like s***.

No matter, just wondered, I do know that Nick Sanders used em on his R1 in the Parallel world run, he thought they were all round great but he's used to riding all sorts across all terrain and to be fair, he was sponsored by Conti, LOL

I've have experienced faster tyre wear in the wet. In my opinion there is considerable difference in tyre characteristics. The difference in warm-up times and wet grip between a Michelin Macadam and a BT016 is great but both have been touted as THE tyre within living memory. Most modern tyres are phenomenal but can react differently to similiar situations. And I think the torque of a v-twin eats tyres.:)

Like Bruce, i've been less than impressed by Battlax, Re the Macadam, the BMW K I had was fitted with them, like the Pirelli MT's above, i thought they were hideous in the wet, a lot of the BMW guys call them Macadamia's, I think they're likening the grip characteristics to the nut!

I got 6,500 out of the rear on my 998 - t'was a Michelin Pilot Power. I don't ride slowly, always enjoy making good progress and love the twisties. I think it depends how smooth you are.

Incredible, that's it, i'm buying a pilot power and if I get less than 6k out of it i'm asking you for a refund, LOL, :D

Anyway, it's all still up in the air for now, carry on fighting gents till a rubberised victor emerges, :P
 
Out of curiosity, where do you get these?

i race my R6 in the scottish championships and im the idiot that buys the £270 a set tyres and then punt them on after the weekends over..£80 is the going rate a set
i use them on my 748 too when its needing them
 
these
or
these
or
these

otherwise.....sorry...think I missunderstand the thread title????

LOL, if anyone emerges wearing the last one, please keep it to yourself, somewhere private and dark!



i race my R6 in the scottish championships and im the idiot that buys the £270 a set tyres and then punt them on after the weekends over..£80 is the going rate a set
i use them on my 748 too when its needing them

Right, so you either need to know someone like yourself or pick them up at the track?
Might be worth bearing in mind (many moons ago I was a pit mech for a guy who raced speedway, he used to sell his tyres to a couple of local motocross riders after each race, a rear knobblie, flipped mid meet to get max edge wear would only last one meet 6-8 races, 3 laps round the oval)
Let me know when you have some sets on the go, I might even get to a race meet to watch you and the others running them in, :D
 
I got 6,500 out of the rear on my 998 - t'was a Michelin Pilot Power. I don't ride slowly, always enjoy making good progress and love the twisties. I think it depends how smooth you are.

First I was gona ask whether that tyre was legal, illegal or outright dangerous when you changed it and then I changed my mind.
Michelin Pilot >>Road<< maybe?
 
First I was gona ask whether that tyre was legal, illegal or outright dangerous when you changed it and then I changed my mind.
Michelin Pilot >>Road<< maybe?
Just checked an old MOT from a month before I changed the tyre and I'm have to admit that I was nearer with my original post. The tyre would have been replaced at around 6200 miles but it was perfectly legal and in no way dangerous. Probably could have got it to 6500 but we were heading the Silverstone that week so wasn't worth the risk.

Definitely Pilot Power
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