Removing Rounded Hex Head Bolts

Best method I've found, (this assumes straight access), is to take a torx or star bit from a socket set, slightly larger, wd on the threads, (but not in the head of the bolt), hammer the bit in firmly til it seats well, attach socket adapter and t bar or breaker bar and hit the bugger while applying pressure anticlockwise. (the shock helps to loosen corroded fasteners)
If access to the bolt head is good mole grips or an auto adjusting wrench.
Last resort, drill and stud extractor, go easy though if that snaps you'll never drill it out.
 
mike s said:
Best method I've found, (this assumes straight access), is to take a torx or star bit from a socket set, slightly larger, wd on the threads, (but not in the head of the bolt), hammer the bit in firmly til it seats well,
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Fastener terminology confusion here. OP refers 'Hex Head', you have answered re 'Socket Head Cap Screw' although I'm with you, I kinda thought Jester actually meant SHCS :)

If it really is hex head then time honoured pin punch, cold chisel, cut a slot for an impact driver etc all work. Heat helps, also breaks down any thread lock compounds. Not always practical though.

One method that works for either head type is to take a nut and put it on top of your dodgy fastener then weld down the inside of the nut (just a dod o 'spuggies sh!ite' MIG is fine) on to the fastener. The heat from the weld combined with the grip you will get on the nut will have the fastener out in no time.
 
My apologies, I read that as a hex key head, it was late though, :)
For a normal hex head bolt, what he said, (pict) :p
 
If it's a standard hex head as Pict says you could try a wall drive socket rather than the standard corner drive type, they are very good. If it's a cap head (allen socket type) then the torx thing is worth a try. You can also try a (good quality) T bar driver and by judicious tapping with a hammer and a twisting motion they often move. If the internal is starting to round out you can also planish the head of the bolt with a drift and hammer to sort of cave it in to get a better grip. Heat helps. As does patience. Plus easing fluid. Prayer also. Maybe.
 
Good soaking overnight with a unlocking solvent, or WD40 etc, probably just as good.

I was amazed to discover sometime ago that my my cheap and nasty (but still working fine) draper impact driver has a removable tool bit head that allows a socket to be fitted in its place. Select appropriate sized socket and belt away to hearts content. This will either work :) or you will end up using the other various methods ;)

Try reading 'Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance' first - I've just finished it oddly enough :eek:
 
iconic944ss said:
Good soaking overnight with a unlocking solvent, or WD40 etc, probably just as good.

I was amazed to discover sometime ago that my my cheap and nasty (but still working fine) draper impact driver has a removable tool bit head that allows a socket to be fitted in its place. Select appropriate sized socket and belt away to hearts content. This will either work :) or you will end up using the other various methods ;)

Try reading 'Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance' first - I've just finished it oddly enough :eek:
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I've had one of these cheap and nasty Draper impact drivers for about 30 years and it has been a godsend many times. Remember to use a hex socket though, preferably one intended for impact use.

I've read 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' twice in the last 40 years or so and each time it was like a different book. Time I read it again.
 
Derek said:
I've read 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' twice in the last 40 years or so and each time it was like a different book. Time I read it again.
Click to expand...

I've read 'Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance' twice in the last 40 years and managed to finish it once. Time I read it again.
 
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