Cheap Chinese indicators

SHarper

Elite Member
Subscriber
Eyup.
On the Triumph I’m using as an excuse for being in the garage; I decided to bin the indicators and mirrors, then discovered and bought these:-
431510A1-FFC5-408A-89F3-D4B4C200424B.webp

As you can see they’re bar end mirrors with turn signals incorporated, but here’s my question:- the standard indicators that I’m removing only have one wire, whereas the new ones have three. On the new mirror/light, I’m assuming the black wire is the earth and the red wire is the positive, so can someone enlighten me where the yellow wire comes into it?

A288AEF2-4C3C-49A9-A515-97F2C402F950.webp

The old indicator is obviously earthed to the headlight shell with the red wire connecting to what I’d disconnect from the loom.
The wires on the new units are also very thin, so the lights are probably LED.
There are no instructions with them.
Soz if it’s a daft question.
 
Solution
On a spare 12v battery try:
With the BLACK wire on Negative / Earth/ 0v /Black battery terminal.
Then first the YELLOW wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a white light, for daytime running.
Then the RED wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a Yellow/Orange light, for indication.

You will need to replace the indicator relay for an electronic one for LED indicators.
This is easier than pissing about with parallel big wattage resistors, which get hot and are difficult to install/hide.

Yellow and red functions may be the other way around......

Please don't let you next post be that the indicators are flashing too fast or are always on..... as you'll have followed the...
Eyup.
On the Triumph I’m using as an excuse for being in the garage; I decided to bin the indicators and mirrors, then discovered and bought these:-
View attachment 29634
As you can see they’re bar end mirrors with turn signals incorporated, but here’s my question:- the standard indicators that I’m removing only have one wire, whereas the new ones have three. On the new mirror/light, I’m assuming the black wire is the earth and the red wire is the positive, so can someone enlighten me where the yellow wire comes into it?

View attachment 29635
The old indicator is obviously earthed to the headlight shell with the red wire connecting to what I’d disconnect from the loom.
The wires on the new units are also very thin, so the lights are probably LED.
There are no instructions with them.
Soz if it’s a daft question.
I am useless at electrics so know idea but i'm sure someone on here will.
 
Its all witchcraft to me but I think you will need more mods if LED, @AirCon or @Derek will have the witchcraft skills required to help 🧙‍♀️
It’s all electrickery to me too. I thought LEDs needed a resistor in the circuit, if this is the case they’ll get put to one side, or be permanently lit for cruzin’ purposes. I also have realised that if I’ve only got two indicators on the bike they wont flash. The idea with them being bar endicators is that they can be seen from the front and the rear, what with it having what can only be described as ‘almost apehangers’.
 
On a spare 12v battery try:
With the BLACK wire on Negative / Earth/ 0v /Black battery terminal.
Then first the YELLOW wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a white light, for daytime running.
Then the RED wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a Yellow/Orange light, for indication.

You will need to replace the indicator relay for an electronic one for LED indicators.
This is easier than pissing about with parallel big wattage resistors, which get hot and are difficult to install/hide.

Yellow and red functions may be the other way around......

Please don't let you next post be that the indicators are flashing too fast or are always on..... as you'll have followed the sage advice above and replaced the relay.
 
Solution
It’s all electrickery to me too. I thought LEDs needed a resistor in the circuit, if this is the case they’ll get put to one side, or be permanently lit for cruzin’ purposes. I also have realised that if I’ve only got two indicators on the bike they wont flash. The idea with them being bar endicators is that they can be seen from the front and the rear, what with it having what can only be described as ‘almost apehangers’.
Having done quite a few of these my advice is always replace the indicator relay.
Neater job overall, more reliable and avoids loads of variables like standard fronts, LED rears etc.
No parallel resistors required (normally used to mimic the electrical load of an incandescent lamp/bulb).
 
On a spare 12v battery try:
With the BLACK wire on Negative / Earth/ 0v /Black battery terminal.
Then first the YELLOW wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a white light, for daytime running.
Then the RED wire to Positive /+12v/ Red battery terminal...... this would bring on a Yellow/Orange light, for indication.

You will need to replace the indicator relay for an electronic one for LED indicators.
This is easier than pissing about with parallel big wattage resistors, which get hot and are difficult to install/hide.

Yellow and red functions may be the other way around......

Please don't let you next post be that the indicators are flashing too fast or are always on..... as you'll have followed the sage advice above and replaced the relay.
In the bin with them I think Don…..
 
That looks really yellow... what about black n red?
Update. .. you are adding pictures as I'm posting.
So it looks like my first post was a correct guess.
Day time running lights or park lights... you decide, but turn them off at night and the others for indicators.
If they are used as daytime running lights they need to go off to allow the indicator to be seen... an interesting electric circuit needed there.
 
So, black to black, red to red and blue to bits (as the old saying goes)

Black to negative, red to positive = white light
black to negative, yellow to positive = yellow light
I need to order a LED flasher relay, but can’t find the one on the bike to see what I need to order. I’ll take it apart a bit more…

edit, just seen ChrisW’s post. ta.
You may need to splice in extra wires to a new relay base, then remove the old relay... this route allows the bike to be returned to standard easily.
The best option is to find an electronic relay that fits the existing relay socket , replacing the original electromechanical (oem) relay.
 
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@The GOAT why does this thread have voting buttons.
Given my apparent popularity I feel these could be misused by those with a malicious bent.
Don has selected the Question Tab when creating his post - as one should when posing a question like this.

It is supposed to work such that people vote up what they believe is the best and most correct/pertinent answer, such as yours, @chrisw and @Derek ’s answers. Thus, anyone with the same question sometime in the future, who stumbles across this thread in their internet search, will immediately see the correct answers for the thread can be sorted by which post got the most votes.

Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to work in this kindergarten 🙁. You keep up the good and correct answers please along with the likes of ChrisW and Derek 👍
 
Don has selected the Question Tab when creating his post - as one should when posing a question like this.

It is supposed to work such that people vote up what they believe is the best and most correct/pertinent answer, such as yours, @chrisw and @Derek ’s answers. Thus, anyone with the same question sometime in the future, who stumbles across this thread in their internet search, will immediately see the correct answers for the thread can be sorted by which post got the most votes.

Unfortunately that doesn’t seem to work in this kindergarten 🙁. You keep up the good and correct answers please along with the likes of ChrisW and Derek 👍
Edited ...
The nursery comment was aimed at you Elsie. ... bad man.
I'd like to thank the Goat for an excellent explanation of the vote buttons.

For those of you who down voted a technical thread, shame on you.
I need a really thick skin on here sometimes. ...I've feelings yer know....
 
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Just WTF am I. .. chopped Liver.... I think the Goat missed #7 completely. ...:unsure: :(:mad:

The the nursery comment is aimed at you Elsie. ... bad man.


So apart from the distress caused by missing me completely in his/hers appreciation I'd like to thank the Goat for an excellent explanation of the vote buttons.

You know you need a really thick skin on here sometimes. ...I've feelings yer know....
No you don't 🤣
 
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