sev
Elite Member
I bet there’s not that much in it between the mag and the ally- 2kg at most, probably anything up to 4-5kg from oem to forged ally
Panigale V4 2020 new bike and mods.
- Thread starter Andyb
- Start date
sev
Elite Member
challenge accepted
, but 100mph is a bit slow, especially if you're going the wrong way.I was thinking more the cost per gm.
So think back to 916 days or essentially pre FEA days, a set of mag rims were up to 50% of the weight of the OEM.
A perfect example, GSXR1100 rear wheel with cush and disc was nearly 10kg, whereas the equivalent marchesini was circa 4.5
That's a big saving and per gramme you were paying for a very noticeable change.
Roll the clock on and with FEA and really good forging technologies, that margin has narrowed, so for example the cost per gramme of forged ally vs mag becomes not an auto include question, but how badly do I need it question.
When you think that the Triumph Daytona 675R thingy they got now has oem wheels which are practically not far off a set of old magnesium hoops you can see how technology has improved, one of the lightest set of OEM hoops on any road bike outside of the carbon rim offerings.
That huge quantum jump in weights manifests itself in carbon vs OE rims now, but again, that can also have it's drawbacks as a super lightweight rim and carbon ones especially are prone to harmonic chatter and Ducati found this on the Superleggera when they thought they ironed the problem out only to have it come back when they changed the engine side case material.
Massive amounts of work was done on harmonic chatter and flexural moments of intertia and stored kinetic energy and associated centrifugal forces back in the 500gp days where they thought lightness of everything was king.
What's the top speed you saw at portimao?
Let me have the weights of the wheels and we can get to work.
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The 2moto lad got 190s with a 1098 in a 999...170 at portimao
sev
Elite Member
He’s good is our Felix
Course he did…
So as you saw I aquired some spare marchesini 10 spokes...
View attachment 22304
trouble is they are a bit gay, a bit 749R, a bit box hill.....
That’s better!!!
sev
Elite Member
So fitted the HM Quickshifter to the v4 ... a few things,
The std Q/S worked ok but is a bit old tech with a spring loaded switch thats destined to fail. The HM one is a strain gauge so better tech.
All the ign and fuel kill times are controlled in the ECU so you cant alter/affect them, the only adjustment on the hm is the sensitivity depending on the size of your club foot!
Different rearsets require different length adjust rods, the two supplied with the kit were way too short. I ended up turning a length of bar to get it own one piece and all pretty.
With different rearsets the arm off of the gear selector needed to be moved from the std position. Ducati have dot punched alignment marks for std levers.. but as the variety of rearsets use a variety of gear change links and locations, to achieve a nice 90 angle both ends of the link rod I rotated the arm one spline.
It is also good to make sure the spherical bearings ends are not too tight as this has the effect of pre loading the strain gauge. also making sure the spherical bearings are in alignment so the gauge is free to rotate side to side when everything it locktighted and tight.
Fitting was relatively easy it just takes a bit of time to get it at an optimum fitment rather than just throw it on, in particular the route of the cables to the small display. ive sat the display on the plastic air shroud that was fitted on recall to guide air to the gear selector sensor.. with the fairings on I can still see it if I want to change sensitivity.
when the gear lever is stationary you can see the selected number. when you pull the lever up or down the numbers move but return to your selected level when you let go of the lever. This is a good measure to make sure the gauge is not being preloaded.
It would appear there are several incarnations and developments of the HM strain gauge So set up procedures change depending on what age your shifter is. The std instructions that came with mine were a bit poor. I like A B C step information it wasn't really that, and on line the video and downloadable instructions are not for the latest version.
The HM does self calibrate and this can interrupt your final set up process which like most things is RTFI. as there is a process you go through load the gear lever switch ign on watch it count down 54321 and on 0 release the lever watch it go 01234 and on 5 press and release the lever, you are then in set up mode. I found this was interrupted by self calibration on occasion and the best thing to do was to switch it off and walk away for a while.
once you get a feel for the process setup is easy again the instructions are not clear at first until you understand it can work pull and or push and you need to set up to your installation of going up the gearbox is pull or push on the strain gauge.
then you can alter the sensitivity, its std at 50. Reading around several ducati types have gone to 60 so I set it to that.
no bolts were rounded off in the fitment of this aftermarket piece of kit!
The std Q/S worked ok but is a bit old tech with a spring loaded switch thats destined to fail. The HM one is a strain gauge so better tech.
All the ign and fuel kill times are controlled in the ECU so you cant alter/affect them, the only adjustment on the hm is the sensitivity depending on the size of your club foot!
Different rearsets require different length adjust rods, the two supplied with the kit were way too short. I ended up turning a length of bar to get it own one piece and all pretty.
With different rearsets the arm off of the gear selector needed to be moved from the std position. Ducati have dot punched alignment marks for std levers.. but as the variety of rearsets use a variety of gear change links and locations, to achieve a nice 90 angle both ends of the link rod I rotated the arm one spline.
It is also good to make sure the spherical bearings ends are not too tight as this has the effect of pre loading the strain gauge. also making sure the spherical bearings are in alignment so the gauge is free to rotate side to side when everything it locktighted and tight.
Fitting was relatively easy it just takes a bit of time to get it at an optimum fitment rather than just throw it on, in particular the route of the cables to the small display. ive sat the display on the plastic air shroud that was fitted on recall to guide air to the gear selector sensor.. with the fairings on I can still see it if I want to change sensitivity.
when the gear lever is stationary you can see the selected number. when you pull the lever up or down the numbers move but return to your selected level when you let go of the lever. This is a good measure to make sure the gauge is not being preloaded.
It would appear there are several incarnations and developments of the HM strain gauge So set up procedures change depending on what age your shifter is. The std instructions that came with mine were a bit poor. I like A B C step information it wasn't really that, and on line the video and downloadable instructions are not for the latest version.
The HM does self calibrate and this can interrupt your final set up process which like most things is RTFI. as there is a process you go through load the gear lever switch ign on watch it count down 54321 and on 0 release the lever watch it go 01234 and on 5 press and release the lever, you are then in set up mode. I found this was interrupted by self calibration on occasion and the best thing to do was to switch it off and walk away for a while.
once you get a feel for the process setup is easy again the instructions are not clear at first until you understand it can work pull and or push and you need to set up to your installation of going up the gearbox is pull or push on the strain gauge.
then you can alter the sensitivity, its std at 50. Reading around several ducati types have gone to 60 so I set it to that.
no bolts were rounded off in the fitment of this aftermarket piece of kit!
Ive also got the mag Marchesini back from Steve turner crack test chromate and refurb, top quality job and great piece of mind!!
The little bit of gold tinge chromate just visible on the mounting surfaces gives away the mag expense.. well that and the feather weight.
The little bit of gold tinge chromate just visible on the mounting surfaces gives away the mag expense..
well that and the feather weight.
I take it that is a shifter/blipper Andy?
Yeah so the bike has it as std..both ways!.
Trouble is the std bit of kit is a spring operated switch and prone to fail... so the HM bit of kit is a strain gauge... much higher tech and less chance of a FUBAR.
Yes I've always had HM quickshifters. I will see how the Suzuki standard shifter/blipper works at Aragon in a couple of weeks.
sev
Elite Member
Nice work Andy, and It'll be interesting to get your feedback on it once you've used it in anger a few times.
Steve Turner is definitely da man.
I do agree with you though, the racing gold only really carries itself on 916 family and before. On anything later, 999> it just looks a bit wrong.
The oem QS circuits on all the flagship superbikes are the same, bmw, yam, suzuki, that horrible mid 90's spring contact plate tech - cheap and nasty just to say they've got one built it.
Did they not do the circuit built into the reverse shift arm for the pani? - I thought you preferred race pattern shift ?
whereas I'm too much of a remtard not to forget that down is up!
Steve Turner is definitely da man.
I do agree with you though, the racing gold only really carries itself on 916 family and before. On anything later, 999> it just looks a bit wrong.
The oem QS circuits on all the flagship superbikes are the same, bmw, yam, suzuki, that horrible mid 90's spring contact plate tech - cheap and nasty just to say they've got one built it.
Did they not do the circuit built into the reverse shift arm for the pani? - I thought you preferred race pattern shift ?
whereas I'm too much of a remtard not to forget that down is up!
Do all the stickers make it faster…
sev
Elite Member
RS stickers if you please.
No but they make me look less of a Ducati once to box hill and back tosser!
I’m confused then, as that’s as Box hill looking as you can get?
If that wasn’t your aim, guess that’s a bonus for you today then knowing a stickered up “race rep” will allow you to fit right in.
Tosser and race rep - oh the irony…
You wouldn't listen......