That was my exact thoughts after some brain lubricationHmmmmbaffles. Backpressure?
Just possibly. It maybe next weekend to the Quatt food stop outside of Bridgnorth or Dinky's dinah depending where he fancies. Maybe both depending on his stomachLooks like it is Father/Son bacon butty trip this weekend![]()
I will let you know this weekendI love a happy ending...![]()
And an update on the troublesome st4s......bloody starter motor has shat itself when I went to turn it over for the first time since winter. Solenoid clicks, battery voltage doesn't drop when I press the start button. It was starting to be a royal PITA in turning over towards the end of last year and I had a feeling this was the issue. Oh and the front brake switch is jammed on.....This bike was sent to test me!
I will let you know how it goes. Any pointers for taking the stator casing off and getting to the three bolts inside that hold the starter to the main engine case?
A very pained Keith
Yes, earth connection if hot starting is an issue - as the temperature increases so does the resistance, check and clean all connections.I could well be wrong as I am comparing it to a very similar situation on a car. But,
Daughters car was doing exactly that, had a new starter motor fitted and made no difference. Turned out to be a bad connection.
I would check connections are all good first, especially the Earth.
(Sorry if you already did just that).
I'll give that a try and the TPSBefore you go pulling the starter motor out have you tried a screwdriver across the solenoid terminals.
The solenoid is far morelikely to fail before the starter motor
Why the TPS?I'll give that a try and the TPS
Just reading back through your post, I think it's the starter. I'll give it a whack with a mallet tomorrow to see if that helps. If not it's open heart surgery timeWhy the TPS?
To check whether the starter motor is receiving electricity attach a multimeter to the positive connection on it, ie the one from the solenoid and the other probe to an earth point. Thumb the starter and you should see 12v on the meter. If you do then the problem lies inside the starter motor, if not then the reason it’s not spinning over is because no leccy is getting to it.
If the problem is the start motor itself you need to drain the oil, pull off the RH crankcase cover so you can get to the starter motor attachment bolts. I think you also need to remove the stator and flywheel for the sprag clutch the starter engages with lies behind those items![]()
Before opening up the crankcase cover you may be able to test the starter motor via its resistance. @AirCon or @Derek will be able to advise here better than me. If the starter motor coils are intact then there’ll be X ohms and if they’ve broken down, and thus the motor won’t spin within its magnets there’ll be Y ohms. Either of those 2 gents should be able to give you an approximation of X & Y values. There’s no point stripping the bike down and removing the starter if the issue lies with the solenoid.Just reading back through your post, I think it's the starter. I'll give it a whack with a mallet tomorrow to see if that helps. If not it's open heart surgery time![]()
Cool, thank you. I will persevere with this bike as I love a challenge but its a joy to ride. I just want to be able to start it without worrying and having to call the breakdown each time.Before opening up the crankcase cover you may be able to test the starter motor via its resistance. @AirCon or @Derek will be able to advise here better than me. If the starter motor coils are intact then there’ll be X ohms and if they’ve broken down, and thus the motor won’t spin within its magnets there’ll be Y ohms. Either of those 2 gents should be able to give you an approximation of X & Y values. There’s no point stripping the bike down and removing the starter if the issue lies with the solenoid.