Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica

Found this on KZ forum.
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If the oil hose carrier/adapter on your engine is like the one in Hughdg's post, it looks like it also carries the oil pressure switch, so can you deduce which port the pressure switch taps into and hence supply and return ports on the crankcase?

Does the oil hose carrier/adapter also feature a thermostat that isolates the oil cooler when the oil is still being warmed up, so the cold oil just comes out of the supply port and back into the 'return' side.

Either way you should probably determine what's what from that, in addition to filling the ports and unless the pump is knackered, you should have virtually no back flow through the oil pump.
No pressure switch on mine, it uses an oil level sensor in the sump. Looking at it now what is probably the feed (rear hole under the cam chain adjuster, poring oil would fill the filter first so would take a while. But it looks like the main gallery where the pressure gauge goes is in fact the drain.
 
I have been fettling two new brackets out of 2.5mm stainless plate as the previous two were a little thin and the lower one flexed under clutch activation with the upper one not holding the protective sleeve in the correct position.

I took the opportunity to get a nicer shape on both, I even managed to get one to look a little bit like a sperm :unsure:

The extra 1mm in thickness made it much harder to form them even with a MAP gas torch 🥵 but I'm happy with the final results.

Just need polishing now...


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... and took a few more pics of Chad's welding for @JAT

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Oooooh, ya bugger! I've been burnt a couple of times paying a fair wedge of Pacific Peso's for welding that looked like a mad woman's poo....I then decided fek it, I could leave out the middle man and screw it up myself, at least I'd get practice and (slowly) improve.
But on reflection.....I don't suppose Chad holidays in the colonies? Needs accommodation and/or refreshment? Or assistance with a drug habit....? Willing to help with any of the latter, lol.
 
I now have a finished Clutch Mechanism after a few tweaks.

Fitted a more robust nipple, added an external tooth star washer in the mechanism (as a just in case if it unscrews) and fitted 1mm thicker spacers to the worm drive assembly to get the cable adjustment to it's minimum adjustment on the lever and at the bars. This meant having to wait for a 5mm O-Ring to replace the 4mm one previously fitted.

I also replaced the red shrink wrap with an opaque one which looks much better.

Clutch function is smooth and light 🥳

I just need to fit longer screws in the worm assy and it's all complete - I might go for domed black stainless if I can find any.


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My Goodridge Front Brake Line Kit came today (in Vintage Black) - I had saved the Aprilia splash guard just in case, and having bought a standard race RSV-R Factory kit it came with grommets fitted to go through this part - so glad I kept it. It fits well with the faring too,

I had to cut the rear section off to allow acess for the front paddock stand.

Not nipped then up yet as I need to fit the front mudguard to make sure they are in the correct orientation to clear and not rub.

I've also ordered a dual cable clamp separator to tidy it up too.


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Fitted the bodywork to sort out routing clearance for the oil lines when they arrive (this week hopefully). Headlamps covers cleared the fairing nicely and fit snug.


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When dry built I thought I had enough clearance for the levers to the fairing but I didn't have the levers at the time. They clash up to where the black line is on the fairing - so I've had to junk the Giles Vari Bars that are fitted.

The front mudguard needs shortening at the front too.


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I ordered some Renthal Bars which only have 20mm offset which gives much more clearance - I might have to take 5mm or so off the fairing but won't know until fitted.

Bars came today and they look well posh.


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