Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica
- Thread starter Exige
- Start date
That’s impressive, good job Exi.
Easter you thick Guinness
What did you use to mask ?
3M 8403 Polyester Tape, we had a full box delivered to work a few years ago by mistake so I snaffled some
it is low tac and cuts cleanly with a craft knife as it's quite stiff...
3M 8403 Polyester Tape – Viking Tapes
For anodizing, composite bonding and splicing, use 3M Polyester Tape 8403. This translucent green tinted tape is coated with a silicone adhesive that bonds well on difficult surfaces, including silicone coated papers and films. It is chemical resistant and performs under a wide range of...
www.vikingtapes.co.uk
That's ages yet. 
Topbox
Well-known member
I've been cogitating .
Cogitating JB Weld. Its basically a glue. Maybe a fancy one but a glue nevertheless.
Having read their website I didn't find anything that's says it will add to the structural strength of what's left of the Ali on your head.
So what you've done is made it look back to 100% without adding any strength.
What I can't figure out is after all the dollar you've thrown at this why your botching these threads is beyond me. Come on Exi get it welded and re tapped do it right.
TB
As mentioned, the threads that remained still torqued up OK - so the additional strength (even though not as strong as ali welding) will be fine. It is bloody tough stuff and is said to melt at 700 degrees so will be fine, as you say it was more of a cosmetic repair anyway in truth
Here's an independent strength test:
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I did read of a Harley owner redoing his exhaust stud threads with JB Weld and it was still going strong 10 years later (mine are only Cam Cover bolts) - there are stories of it not working too but I guess it's all in the preparation, here is a good comparison Video which shows it's abilities:
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Bouncy too, thanks DadSeems a bit odd to customise your walking sticks grandad but they do look pretty
And the stickers are straight.Bouncy too, thanks Dad
Yes, but not through an iPhone lensAnd the stickers are straight.
but they do threepenny-bit in one direction 
Sex wee.
Finished masking the bottom end, using the engine cases as masks as well as tape.
Ordered some PVC tubing in two sizes to mask the crank case bolt heads as I didn’t want them blathering in paint.
Just a final light rub with wet and dry and a last clean with brake cleaner and alcohol wipes just prior to painting and we’re done!
Now waiting on that first 20 degree sunny
day to spray outside - feckin’ winter is here again 
Ordered some PVC tubing in two sizes to mask the crank case bolt heads as I didn’t want them blathering in paint.
Just a final light rub with wet and dry and a last clean with brake cleaner and alcohol wipes just prior to painting and we’re done!
Now waiting on that first 20 degree sunny
day to spray outside - feckin’ winter is here again
Forgot to post a pic of my reworked Shock I think
I calculated the weight of the bike (well estimated from the original spec of the race bike), guessed the front to rear bias, added rider weight (Svelte) factored in the angle of the shock (from it's middle position) and applied the relevant factor and gave it to my local Ohlin's Specialist to calculate the Spring Rate required - at least somewhere near anyhoo as with the gaudy blue original Rising Rate spring the back end didn't move at all.
He also reduced the bump stop for me by 10mm too.
If my calculations are correct I will achieve around 80 to 90mm of travel (similar to old twin shock bikes of the Era, not ideal but OK. If I need more I will have to strip the shock and have a new shaft made which is a faff, as Nitron refused to supply one as I mentioned previously (what great customer service - they would only supply a complete new shock which are well over £1000
) The spring is from FireFox Racing and not from the unhelpful Nitron - I might take the Nitron stickers off and replace them with Shitron
It looks much nicer with the black spring I think.
I calculated the weight of the bike (well estimated from the original spec of the race bike), guessed the front to rear bias, added rider weight (Svelte) factored in the angle of the shock (from it's middle position) and applied the relevant factor and gave it to my local Ohlin's Specialist to calculate the Spring Rate required - at least somewhere near anyhoo as with the gaudy blue original Rising Rate spring the back end didn't move at all.
He also reduced the bump stop for me by 10mm too.
If my calculations are correct I will achieve around 80 to 90mm of travel (similar to old twin shock bikes of the Era, not ideal but OK. If I need more I will have to strip the shock and have a new shaft made which is a faff, as Nitron refused to supply one as I mentioned previously (what great customer service - they would only supply a complete new shock which are well over £1000
) The spring is from FireFox Racing and not from the unhelpful Nitron - I might take the Nitron stickers off and replace them with Shitron It looks much nicer with the black spring I think.
Nothing much doing until the weather improves so I can spray the engine so been clearing the dining table of bike stuff in readiness for Mrs Ex visiting at Easter. Moved the exhaust into the 'build' area and assembled the springs.
Took a couple of pics and thought I'd post them as it's bloody wonderful
Took a couple of pics and thought I'd post them as it's bloody wonderful
I can testify from my extensive background in stick welding that JB weld is a vastly superior alternative
Looking good man!!
It is good when a plan comes together, fuck the A team!!