Kawasaki KR1000 Endurance Replica

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Finished the case to a dull, non blingy finish and painted the inside faces black - output shaft seals came today for the casing - just need 3 new stainless bolts, but I cant get low head cap screws to suit the other casing screws; so I will have to grind some standard head bolts down...



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RH Timing Cover polished - still to fit, might get a new seal although the old one seems good :unsure:

The Clutch Cover has been rough polished but needs major work now to fit the pull mechanism for the clutch - did another scribble and think I have a solution. The bearing / push pin my mate was going to thread, stud and weld to extend is too hard - so he'll make an alloy one for me to determine the size required and then make a steel one to get induction hardened for the thrust bearing face.

I need a neater sketch as we are looking at starting it at the weekend :oops:


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The gear change shaft shows now the cover is cut down extensively and looks a bit rough after it's near 40 year life - so I decided to sleeve it with alloy and a silicone seal at either end to lightly sandwich it between the cover and the inside of the engine case.

Just need the alloy machined to length...

Gear actuator has been ordered along with the correct length linkage to fit the rear-sets and should arrive this week.

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Barrels and head are now ready for masking for paint - I just had a couple of small JB Weld repairs to do to the head. The first being one of the end cam cover bolt threads. It had a piece cracked off the top of the thread although the bolt still had enough thread to torque up I though it best to try JB Weld for a repair.

Never used this stuff before but it is fab, had to leave it overnight before I could refinish the repair though.

This was the easier of the two repairs, the second will be finished tomorrow as I needed to add a touch more JB Weld today.

I used Duct Tape for a mould on the first repair and inserted a bolt with a thin coating of molybdenum grease on the threads to stop the JB Weld sticking to them. Then mixed and squished the gunge in to the recess.

Once set a bit of fettling and all done, unnoticeable once painted...






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Can I just check please, you smeared the bolt with moly grease and then formed the JB Weld around it and then, once the JB Weld had set, you simply unscrewed the bolt and it came out easily and left what one sees in the last photo? I appreciate that's after you've sanded it down. Only asking as i have a similar repair job to do on a bike.
TIA.
 
Can I just check please, you smeared the bolt with moly grease and then formed the JB Weld around it and then, once the JB Weld had set, you simply unscrewed the bolt and it came out easily and left what one sees in the last photo? I appreciate that's after you've sanded it down. Only asking as i have a similar repair job to do on a bike.
TIA.
How handy is the die grinder you Guinness!!
 
Can I just check please, you smeared the bolt with moly grease and then formed the JB Weld around it and then, once the JB Weld had set, you simply unscrewed the bolt and it came out easily and left what one sees in the last photo? I appreciate that's after you've sanded it down. Only asking as i have a similar repair job to do on a bike.
TIA.
Yes, exactly that, nice thin coating of grease: I just smeared it on and removed the excess - but make sure the casting is all clean with isopropanol wipes after degreasing.
 
Fitted the rear break calliper but only had 25mm bolts which just kiss the disc, if I put 20mm bolts in they are short of going through the hanger plate by 2mm only leaving 8mm of effective thread purchase - so just ordered some drilled Ti bolts to match the front calliper bolts @ 25mm and will have them machined down to 22mm.



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Right hand rear-set mounted - just not too keen on the white reservoir so might have a look what's available. Brembo do a smoked one but the pipe comes out at 45 degrees and won't fit the preformed tube which fits nicely. I will ponder for a while :unsure:



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