Métis 2 Bobber Build

Markduc said:
Will the extra length affect the damping?
And definitely don’t get your 1970s flairs out
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I think the quick, simple answer is yes, a longer arm will affect the damping, but only in that, for a given setting the longer arm would need a slightly higher setting than it would were the original, shorter arm fitted.
In practice I doubt very much that I would really notice any difference in normal day to day riding. These dampers have a very wide range of settings from almost un-noticeable right up to almost locked. I can't remember what setting I have the other bike set at, but it is set very low. I expect this bike might need one or two clicks more damping at the most, if at all.

I did plan on getting some sort of a carbon heel guard made to cover the front area of the clutch cover as that is the only part that I have ever accidentally touched with my foot on a few occasions when the engine was running on the first bike. I planned to use the rear two mounting screws holding the carbon centre plate in place to secure the heel guard, but to be honest it's never really been an issue for me so I doubt I bother now.
 
CAT3 said:
I think the quick, simple answer is yes, a longer arm will affect the damping, but only in that, for a given setting the longer arm would need a slightly higher setting than it would were the original, shorter arm fitted.
In practice I doubt very much that I would really notice any difference in normal day to day riding. These dampers have a very wide range of settings from almost un-noticeable right up to almost locked. I can't remember what setting I have the other bike set at, but it is set very low. I expect this bike might need one or two clicks more damping at the most, if at all.

I did plan on getting some sort of a carbon heel guard made to cover the front area of the clutch cover as that is the only part that I have ever accidentally touched with my foot on a few occasions when the engine was running on the first bike. I planned to use the rear two mounting screws holding the carbon centre plate in place to secure the heel guard, but to be honest it's never really been an issue for me so I doubt I bother now.
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Thank you for the simple, understandable explanation into the damper on both my behalf and exi’s
It may help him speed up any future projects
 
Exige said:
Re anodize that damper black when you get the rest done - and cut those bolts to length and use nicer nuts - they are all iggledy piggldy 🤪
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The bike is going to be in the main two shades of blue, hence the blue damper. Although the leaf springs & that bottom clamp plate that the damper mounts to will be powder coated gloss black I like the idea of the damper being blue & "visible".
I have stainless steel bolts already machined down with stainless nyloc nuts ready for the final build (y)
 
Exige said:
He ain't finished this one yet - that will see him till 90 🤪
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Shouldn’t you and Wayne be in bed by now (your own bed)

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Exige said:
Anodised blue stuff still needs dumping, it’s not a 90’s GSXR 🤷‍♂️
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Colours will be light blue, dark blue, orange anodising & black anodising. There might be a bit of hard anodising too, which is a sort of olive colour & some contrasting hand pin striping !! Get your head around that little lot Exi !!
The Métis, pronounced Maytee, means of mixed blood, old style, modern materials, old skills, modern CNC machines, etc.

The "style" will be along the lines of this old Indian. Of course mine will have leaf spring forks, no front mudguard, big front disc brake just to mention a few of it's features.

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CAT3 said:
Colours will be light blue, dark blue, orange anodising & black anodising. There might be a bit of hard anodising too, which is a sort of olive colour & some contrasting hand pin striping !! Get your head around that little lot Exi !!
The Métis, pronounced Maytee, means of mixed blood, old style, modern materials, old skills, modern CNC machines, etc.

The "style" will be along the lines of this old Indian. Of course mine will have leaf spring forks, no front mudguard, big front disc brake just to mention a few of it's features.

View attachment 132499
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It looks like that was ticking over when the picture was being taken, or the photographer had Parkinsons.
 
Magneto fitting started yesterday, prior to lawn mowing !!
I only intend to get the base mounted at the moment & the head of the magneto slaved in place so that I can have a read of the instructions & have a whey up of what's needed.
There's a base & a head & fitting involves a little disassembly first. You have to remove the head drive gear in order to get to the two mounting holes hidden below the gear. Because this drive gear is a "good" fit it involved some very gentle tapping to get the gear off the shaft after first removing the circlip & spacer holding the gear to the shaft. A punch through the two mounting holes give access to two underside of the gear for "even" tapping !

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With the gear off, the base can be positioned in place, the two screws fitted, thread-lock applied & tightened in place. The engine is then positioned so that the front cylinder is at TDC, the head is rotated until the points are just opening & then the head is placed into the base ensuring that when the gears mesh nothing moves. Then fit the washers & nuts finger tight to hold the head in place while final timing is done. Below is the base with base-plate & gaskets in place prior to the head being fitted. Oil also needs to be added into the bottom of the base for lubrication. Morris recommend ATF or something similar.

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You then just do the static timing the "olde school" way !! I used the Morris gadget for ding this, just makes life easy. You get a positive buzz from the box & a steady LED illuminating when things are set. You can use a multimeter or various other things, a bulb a battery, etc, but the Morris tool just make life easy. No flickering needle or LED readout as with a multimeter depending upon what type you have/use or flickering bulb if using one of those !!
Notice no more conventional condenser ?!

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I'll leave it like that for now as the base needs filling with oil prior to running the engine so I'll do that when the final build takes place & it'll need timing again then anyway just to check it's correct after removal so there's no point wasting time doing that now !!

Below is the whole assembly in place. When the terminals come I'll cut the HT leads to length & get them connected to the cap. At least it will look finished ! :ROFLMAO:

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Why is it whenever you buy parts for a job & put them "somewhere safe", when it comes to using them you can never find them !! :mad: And, after you've given up & ordered some more !!
While looking for something else I found the 90 degree connectors that I'd bought for the HT leads so I finished that little job off today (y) At this rate it'll be finished soon Exi !! :ROFLMAO:

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CAT3 said:
Why is it whenever you buy parts for a job & put them "somewhere safe", when it comes to using them you can never find them !! :mad: And, after you've given up & ordered some more !!
While looking for something else I found the 90 degree connectors that I'd bought for the HT leads so I finished that little job off today (y) At this rate it'll be finished soon Exi !! :ROFLMAO:

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Soon in your time is just a mere 10 more years 😮
 
Bit more progress made yesterday & today ;) Made a mounting bracket for the two electrical fuses that I want to fit. The mounting position is not ideal, but it will have to do ! I'll only need to remove two screws to lift the assembly out of the way if/when I need to get the battery in or out.

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Also got the top engine mount tacked up, I'll leave the final welding until the final assembly in case the engine changes position slightly. In theory it shouldn't move from where it is now, but things have a habbit of moving around slightly when disassembled, powder-coated & re-assembled !!

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Got the MotoGadget mounting bracket made too. Again it's not in the best of locations & I'm sure the wiring will be a bit of a fiddle when I get to it !! It just needs two more inserts fitting once I've used the two holes as pilot holes & drilled the two corresponding holes in the side of the battery box.

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CAT3 said:
Bit more progress made yesterday & today ;) Made a mounting bracket for the two electrical fuses that I want to fit. The mounting position is not ideal, but it will have to do ! I'll only need to remove two screws to lift the assembly out of the way if/when I need to get the battery in or out.

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Also got the top engine mount tacked up, I'll leave the final welding until the final assembly in case the engine changes position slightly. In theory it shouldn't move from where it is now, but things have a habbit of moving around slightly when disassembled, powder-coated & re-assembled !!

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Got the MotoGadget mounting bracket made too. Again it's not in the best of locations & I'm sure the wiring will be a bit of a fiddle when I get to it !! It just needs two more inserts fitting once I've used the two holes as pilot holes & drilled the two corresponding holes in the side of the battery box.

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Considering the fact you are designing the whole thing and fabricating the necessary parts, this work is going by really quickly.

Not as quickly as bolting together standard parts of course but this is an engineering project, not assembling a kit bike!
 
Trust me, even with that bracket the battery will be a hell of lot easier to remove than it is on current M8 models.
 
The big strip-down has begun !!

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Just the front forks to dismantle & the engine to get out. Then it's off to get the final welding done, then powder coating. At this rate it "could" be finished before 2026, maybe, possibly !!:unsure:

Even got most of the anodising parts sorted out !

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Most of the nuts & bolts are also bagged up & labelled ready for rebuilding ! ;) It's surprising how long it actually take to do all this, but hopefully it will be worth it when it comes to the rebuild, I'm already struggling to remember where some parts go & I only took them off a few hours ago :ROFLMAO:

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Laava said:
Wow, it's going to be rewarding tho, doing final assembly
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That makes it sound so close, but I've still got to sort out the painting of the fuel tanks, oil tank, mudguard & headstock cover. Then there's the wiring, a job that is very time consuming !! ;)
Also, I've got to machine some blanks to plug places like the headstock where the bearing races sit & the pivot points on the front forks. It's far easier to spend time machining some blanks/plugs to stop the areas being blasted & powder coated & then having to clean the surfaces off after powder coating. I made that mistake with the first bike !! :ROFLMAO: Hopefully though it won't be too long before I can ride it, quicker than a certain Kawasaki endurance replica anyway, by a few years !! :ROFLMAO:
 
CAT3 said:
That makes it sound so close, but I've still got to sort out the painting of the fuel tanks, oil tank, mudguard & headstock cover. Then there's the wiring, a job that is very time consuming !! ;)
Also, I've got to machine some blanks to plug places like the headstock where the bearing races sit & the pivot points on the front forks. It's far easier to spend time machining some blanks/plugs to stop the areas being blasted & powder coated & then having to clean the surfaces off after powder coating. I made that mistake with the first bike !! :ROFLMAO: Hopefully though it won't be too long before I can ride it, quicker than a certain Kawasaki endurance replica anyway, by a few years !! :ROFLMAO:
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This build is taking longer than I have been on this planet, how the feck old are you 300 🤷‍♂️ - and all you are doing is bolting things together that you shipped in from OCC 🤷‍♂️ :)
 
CAT3 said:
That makes it sound so close, but I've still got to sort out the painting of the fuel tanks, oil tank, mudguard & headstock cover. Then there's the wiring, a job that is very time consuming !! ;)
Also, I've got to machine some blanks to plug places like the headstock where the bearing races sit & the pivot points on the front forks. It's far easier to spend time machining some blanks/plugs to stop the areas being blasted & powder coated & then having to clean the surfaces off after powder coating. I made that mistake with the first bike !! :ROFLMAO: Hopefully though it won't be too long before I can ride it, quicker than a certain Kawasaki endurance replica anyway, by a few years !! :ROFLMAO:
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Just a thought for you, …I make all my blanking plugs with pine. I just cut them out with a hole saw and shape them with the belt sander. Belt sander upside down and stationary, just holding the plug on the belts by hand. On the headstock I put a bolt thru the plugs to make sure they stayed in. As you said, cleaning paint and residue from a machined recess is a pain in the arse.
 
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