Think they use a type of T Drive disc
Panigale V4 2020 new bike and mods.
- Thread starter Andyb
- Start date
Mary Hinge
Well-known member
Looks really nice and purposeful 
Everyone loves a race rep....................don't they?Looks really nice and purposeful
Nice work.
A Koji rep would've been great.
A Koji rep would've been great.
Mary Hinge
Well-known member
Common as muck....
So I waited until Friday to book it as the weather was up and down plus I only live 4 miles away...it was under sold so 75% full.... only one red flag all day......and he was asking for it from the first session!
that said it was the national circuit and 200 quid!.... sign of the times but I wanted to get all the mods I had done checked and adjusted etc so a good day for me really!
that said it was the national circuit and 200 quid!.... sign of the times but I wanted to get all the mods I had done checked and adjusted etc so a good day for me really!
Happy?
what, if anything needs adjusting ?
what, if anything needs adjusting ?
I was optimistic with the height of my rearsets so lowered them a hole
I had baffles in front and rear of the silencers both sides, took the rear ones out and still complied with the 102 ride by..
brand new chain and sprockets in a 520 size so the chain needed adjusting after a couple of sessions which on the eccentric meant I could reset the datum of the rear ride height with my new adjusters
sev
Elite Member
all the road car stuff is carbon ceramic rather than carbon carbon like F1 cars.
I'm not sure what the motogp bikes run.
The carbon ceramic stuff is capable of dealing with low temperature braking, whereas the the full F1 / aero brakes really need to be seeing 300 degrees and upwards minimum before they'll think about providing any bite. hence all the shrouding you see on F1 brake drums - which is why all these "cooling" ducts you see for sale are all bollocks. You try and keep the heat in the disc and cool the caliper because it's the fluid that boils up.
Cost wise, you're probably in the ball park of 5 to 7 grand if supercars are anything to go by. A brake disc on something like a ferrari or a Mclaren will happily set you back in the region of 5 grand a corner by the time a set of pads are thrown in, and it wasn't uncommon for a track day of said owners to be throwing in the region of 10 to 15 grand at their car for a fresh set of brakes, pads and rubber at the end of the days hooning.
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sev
Elite Member
I'm really not sure Stu. minimum 2.5 x markup easy.So what would the manufacturing cost be per corner as a comparison
its also the way they're made. none of this autoclave stuff, it's serious pressure to make a carbon disc. Huge pressures to fuse it all together.
For an carbon disc it's probably in the region of many grands - limited market and that magical meal ticket that is aerospace certification.
For a carbon ceramic road car disc what? maybe 500 - 1.5k at OEM production volume?
I'll see if I can find out.
There was that company in the USA doing carbon ceramic discs for bikes but their pricing was greedy, I think they wanted 8k for a pair of fronts with pads, which is bonkers.
Here is a good video:
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It would be interesting - in OEM mainstream (well JLR) manufacturing the mark up is often x 10 such as on the Spoiler Assemblies when JLR sell as spares. We manufactured them, painted them, weld / assembly with all the gubbins, RF / TV Antennas and high level brake lights and sold them at circa £80 on a Land Rover/Range Rover.
sev
Elite Member
Same with McBurgers. The more rag fluff and stick on tat it was the higher the markup as customers lapped it up.
Anything rquiring the higher capital investment costs to buy in less so - I would imagine that a set of discs priced at 10k a corner would just get you customers walking away from your brand as even the most wealthy don't like to feel they're being juiced just because.
So as you saw I aquired some spare marchesini 10 spokes... 
trouble is they are a bit gay, a bit 749R, a bit box hill.....
Now that was reflected in the price I paid. These wheels are stamp dated 09/20..so very new. The fact is new from a uk supplier is circa 2 grand with at least a conservative 2 month wait!
I was lucky with the price I paid for these admittedly they are forged ally. My current wheels are forged Magnesium, but you are up in the 3-4 grand for those puppies and they don't come along very often. Now I plan on getting my magnesium ones re chromated and done up at CPTS so I wanted another set to keep it rolling plus I wanted to have a spare set for less time wasting sat watching the tyre man go down a queue...so these came up were a very good price.....and I knew I could change from the tosser gold...
So this weekend I stripped the gold off....using some of the stuff I had left over from stripping my tank...
So what colour.....and what process?
trouble is they are a bit gay, a bit 749R, a bit box hill.....
Now that was reflected in the price I paid. These wheels are stamp dated 09/20..so very new. The fact is new from a uk supplier is circa 2 grand with at least a conservative 2 month wait!
I was lucky with the price I paid for these admittedly they are forged ally. My current wheels are forged Magnesium, but you are up in the 3-4 grand for those puppies and they don't come along very often. Now I plan on getting my magnesium ones re chromated and done up at CPTS so I wanted another set to keep it rolling plus I wanted to have a spare set for less time wasting sat watching the tyre man go down a queue...so these came up were a very good price.....and I knew I could change from the tosser gold...
So this weekend I stripped the gold off....using some of the stuff I had left over from stripping my tank...
So what colour.....and what process?
sev
Elite Member
Is that gold the proper marchesini Racing gold or some after market gypsy gold?
The bronze in it at least in the image removes the full fat ghey from it.
If your bodywork was red I'd say definitely keep the colour as it's not as blingy as 90's marchesini gold, but on your existing bodywork it might just be best to go for black.
The bronze in it at least in the image removes the full fat ghey from it.
If your bodywork was red I'd say definitely keep the colour as it's not as blingy as 90's marchesini gold, but on your existing bodywork it might just be best to go for black.
What colour are the wheels on the bike you're trying to replicate?
gloss black...... but they were powder coated as original from marchesini... there are better more technical finishes available
sev
Elite Member
ok so first question... why do you want a technical coating on there?
What are you trying to achieve past colour?
Reason I ask is because a decent painted rim will see you fine if you don't want gorilla powdercoat.
Alternatively you might want to think about cerakote over xylan, as xylan is pretty overkill for what you're looking to do perhaps.
Xylan is a great heat resistant low friction coating, and used in military and aero applications where a high cycle rate is required that would otherwise smash a normal coating to pieces. Cerakote might be the better way to go - as you know it was a ceramic derived coating for the firearms industry originally.
That scott Reading bike has dark bodywork though, on your bike the silver wheels will get lost in the whole brightness of it all, however if your rotors have black centres then it could work.
You could brush finish the rims and then laquer over so it matches your tank?
Cerakote might actually do a transparent coating for bare metal.
What are you trying to achieve past colour?
Reason I ask is because a decent painted rim will see you fine if you don't want gorilla powdercoat.
Alternatively you might want to think about cerakote over xylan, as xylan is pretty overkill for what you're looking to do perhaps.
Xylan is a great heat resistant low friction coating, and used in military and aero applications where a high cycle rate is required that would otherwise smash a normal coating to pieces. Cerakote might be the better way to go - as you know it was a ceramic derived coating for the firearms industry originally.
That scott Reading bike has dark bodywork though, on your bike the silver wheels will get lost in the whole brightness of it all, however if your rotors have black centres then it could work.
You could brush finish the rims and then laquer over so it matches your tank?
Cerakote might actually do a transparent coating for bare metal.
![Image 1 - 4 rims MASERATI Granturismo 19 " Original Anthracite 228796 228795](/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2Fimages%2Fg%2Fs%7EwAAOSwBHddgjiq%2Fs-l1600.jpg&hash=6cc5af53f9e4e516e0f42fbdade1adb2 "Image 1 - 4 rims MASERATI Granturismo 19 " Original Anthracite 228796 228795")
How about a weight comparison between the wheels.
V4
Mag
Ally..
V4
Mag
Ally..