Project Superspurt

Only coming up on fleabay with the steel version which I have a few lying around, I have the earlier alloy one as well with the cast wheel spindle housing but that one looks better.
 
sam said:
Only coming up on fleabay with the steel version which I have a few lying around, I have the earlier alloy one as well with the cast wheel spindle housing but that one looks better.
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Aye, they are pretty sought after and don't think there were that many in the first place. Then of course the 800 is/was a favourite in the Desmodue race series so all the racers down south will be trading them between each other and they won't likely reach the 'open market'
 
Fantastic Build!

Some rubber valve caps on the yoke lock stops prevent metal to metal contact - but the ones in the photo look non-standard.
 
Fork Springs

Apart from being wound the other direction, the new Wilbers fork springs don't look any different but are softer than the standard 1098 ones since the project (even with me on it :rolleyes:) is considerably lighter than a 1098, and hopefully a fair bit lighter than even a standard SS


10Fork Strip 3 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr
 
One step forward, 3 steps back

Rigged everything up but couldn't finish the front end (do the necessary to the speedo drive, make a spacer) as I didn't have caliper bolts;

Front End 003 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr

Went off my head and bought some titanium caliper bolts (:cool:) but the flanged heads prevented them fitting properly - sigh.. :o

Wasn't sure of the script for turning titanium but stuck them in the lathe anyway with my unknown grade of tip and they turned down nicely with no drama.

Fitted the wheel so that it could slide about on the spindle and fitted the calipers. There was no way that the discs would centre in the calipers :confused::mad:

After a bit of a panic, thoughts of milling one side of the wheel :eek: etc I calmed down and did a bit of lateral thinking. Loosened the forks in the bottom yoke, gave the fork bottoms a wee tug and that was it, centred nicely. So I need to re-think my fork shimming... I have been avoiding a machined sleeve as they will be a PITA to make, but looks like that's the way forward. if a job's worth doing and all that...

Now that wheel/discs could sit central, I was able to see how much (not much) needed taking off the (748) speedo drive.


Speedo Drive by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr

I used the boring bar to face from inside out as the worm drive housing wouldn't clear my external tool.

Back wheel needs putting back on the Tr*u*ph, fork seal needs done for MZ MOT, so this can wait it's turn again....

Specials building - Pah! :mad:
 
Onwards and upwards

Fork sleeve production starting soon :thumbs:

Aluminium Tube - 60mm Diam x 10mm Wall x 250mm Long
Item Number 150337213831
 
Oil cooler lines

Cheers to Dave G for the inspiration (and spotting some lines on eBay in the US) for this clean looking (I think anyway...) Hypermotard oil line setup:


Oil Cooler Lines 001 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr


Oil Cooler Lines 002 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr


Oil Cooler Lines 003 by Lindsay fae Angus, on Flickr

This is just a first-fit; there is a bit of spiral wrapping to be done in a couple of places and a wee support to be made or bought to bolt to the front bottom of the alternator housing.

Otherwise snail pace... might get to the lathe for the fork sleeves on Saturday afternoon but unlikely :o
 
Looking superb......................This machine is going to be better than new by the look of your work Lindsay?....:)
 
About your oil lines. I got a pair made for my old Monster at a local hydraulic company. It helped a little that the guy doing it knew a little about bikes and how we like 'em to be purdy....so he fabricated mine in about 20 minutes from stainless braided like yours and we did a couple of "dry assemblies" to check the lengths and curves were good. He got them spot on and IIRC he only charged me about £20 per line, even threw in a hose clamp to keep them separated. It's well worth checking out local suppliers. Pirtek are a national supplier but local is good. HTH.
 
Hi Pete - that's exactly what I was going to do (I have a few contacts locally for hydraulics), and would definitely recommend that others do the same for pipes with standard fittings but I wanted the Hyper look which meant fabricating rigid hydraulic lines with compression fittings for the engine ends so as to clear the starter. That combined with the bike not being very mobile (I know, I could have left the lines until it was on it's wheels... but these small acheivements keep the motivation up) for those 'dry assemblies' led me to the off-the-shelf option.

It's well worth checking out local suppliers.
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Absolutely! Bearing Suppliers, Motor Factors, Hydraulics, Machining, Auto Electricians, Steel stockholders, Welders - these are the guys that we want (need!) to keep in business. Also they are the guys that are keen to deal cash on a Saturday morning ;)
 
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Pict said:
Absolutely! Bearing Suppliers, Motor Factors, Hydraulics, Machining, Auto Electricians, Steel stockholders, Welders - these are the guys that we want (need!) to keep in business. Also they are the guys that are keen to deal cash on a Saturday morning ;)[/QUOTE

Monday to Friday as well ! ;)
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Getting to be project building weather of an evening again.. have done a wee bit since last post, but not much..
 
sam said:
Only coming up on fleabay with the steel version which I have a few lying around, I have the earlier alloy one as well with the cast wheel spindle housing but that one looks better.
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Don't throw them away; I will need a steel swingarm for the next project - it's going to be black so seems a shame to paint an alloy one.
 
Boot time ye got yer finger oot lad! ;) are you going to slit the sleve or will it clamp up without any relief?
 
Am further on, just not caught up with the photos.. thought of slitting the sleeve but it is practically an interference fit on the fork, and everything sits centred up as it should when torqued up so leaving as is.
 
Derek said:
FYI - The old style studs that were prone to breaking had a bright shiny steel finish. The later studs are black.
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That would be because they are made from stainless steel I believe. Later ones were carbon steel. Stronger and less prone to galling. Do you know how much the alter ones cost? I have two broken ones on the new 900 project so at the very least I need four, maybe eight if I decide to do the front pot too. Looking for one at least (two if the price is right) standard ignition coil.
 
rockjock620 said:
That would be because they are made from stainless steel I believe. Later ones were carbon steel. Stronger and less prone to galling. Do you know how much the alter ones cost? I have two broken ones on the new 900 project so at the very least I need four, maybe eight if I decide to do the front pot too. Looking for one at least (two if the price is right) standard ignition coil.
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This would suggest that they are not too dear - call Harry
 
 
Suits the red frame see ye have a casing saver as well, was there much modding needing done to use the std filter box along with the FCR's? Hope ye are fitting loud noislisers!
 
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