TT2 Replica build

An A35 rod also good for chro/mo 70/100 amps (greater heat on the headstock as this will be thicker) I use a large shielding cup 10/12 mm on tube feel it gives a better shield. buy a good quality tig there are a lot of what I would call a tanning machines. p.s. get a lot of practice in it only has to break once and may not be forgiving when it does. Ragged edge racing sell farings and seat units a lot cheaper I will let him tell you the story. Look about as the tanks are made else where why pay the middle man.
 
Cheers Sam, any info on the exhaust? What about the pulse frequency or did you just use amps. I was looking to get a fibre glass tank to have the level window, plus I've got a pair of aero filler caps for the enduro look.
 
F1 Exhaust the headers for the 600 were 38mm I think the F1 was 40mm have never used pulse





 
The silencer looks great , Like the panel beating too. Did you roll the cones and seam weld them or buy the parts? What tubing would you recommend for for the down pipes?
Have you good any pictures of the bike in its latest state? keep up the great work.
 
Stainless for the headers and silencer look on fleabay for stainless exhaust bends pay attention to the CLR (centre line radius) and make sure they suit the rad you need. Are you any good with radial line development for the cone? if not download "plate n sheet 4" trial version you can do the indavidual cones there and print off (make them a wee bit longer so you can trim them back to give the off sets) save up your cornflake boxes to make the templates from or if ye feel adventurous try hydro forming the cone slice cut and move around untill ye get a good snug fitting silencer. Have not worked on the bike for a while now and doubt i will for a while yet, looking at building an extension on the house fitting a biomass heating system mezzanine floor in the workshop, finish my wee brewery off ( before any of the previous) and then chill for a wee while ready for the winter setting in (next winter) :)
This is how it stands at the moment.

 
Thanks for all the info Sam. I just missed out on a welder on flea bay yesterday, I bid £375 but it ended going for £420. I'll give a few more a bid and if my lucks out I'll get a new one. I've just looked at the engine to make some measurements and noticed that the mountings from o/s to n/s aren't the same distance to the centre line. The n/s of the frame must have a steeper angle as to the o/s as the mounting is 4.25 mm further away from the centre line. (900ss)
 
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Look at the spacers that go in there they are of different lengths. I have also noticed on the Pantah that there are different final drive shafts with different offsets as well. mount the motor with the swing arm and rear wheel central to the headstock probably the easiest way to calculate.
 
mouse said:
I have heard that the 900/7750ss frame crome moly, then I've heard that its not and they are made from mild steel ERW. This is because cro-moly is a lot more expensive. I'll let you know when its cut up after the gig is made. Then its going to be a base for a coffee table.
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these frames are made of mild steel , and are seamed ( or welded)
i cut one up for my tt2 project wich is nearly there , so if you want some surplus tubing it is here for free.onlt the headstock with the framenumber is not.
i used nothing exotic like 532 or t45 but seamless tube , intended for pneumatic or hydraulic use. i used that after a long chat with Dave Molineux (of sidecar fame)as he uses those for his frames

this is a lovely project and my hat off for the builder

if this is of interest i could put some info and /or pics if this is ok as i do not want to take over this thread
 
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lynxnsu said:
these frames are made of mild steel , and are seamed ( or welded)
i cut one up for my tt2 project wich is nearly there , so if you want some surplus tubing it is here for free.onlt the headstock with the framenumber is not.
i used nothing exotic like 532 or t45 but seamless tube , intended for pneumatic or hydraulic use. i used that after a long chat with Dave Molineux (of sidecar fame)as he uses those for his frames

this is a lovely project and my hat off for the builder
Click to expand...

Known as CDS (cold drawn seamless) not to mistaken for DOM (drawn over mandrel) Molly also or did use a tube that had a rib 180 deg from each other (which was also from a hydraulic application) or he did back in the early 90's for the main spine to the chair wheel giving it more strength.
 
Finally pulled out my TT project, I had to machine up an oversised swing arm spindle 0.1mm or 0.004. I had an old Darmah spindle (I think) that was pitted so tidied that up and sent it off to be hard chromed and ground to size. Have just finished reaming out the bushes in the rear of the motor to make sure they are true, now have the swing arm in place. Have also ordered up some electronic goodies which should arrive in the next day or so.

 
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FFS photobucket are holding people to ransom so can someone teach me how to upload a picture the old way please. Think i may have managed it.

Sam
 
Picked up my motor yesterday from Paul Klatkiewicz of DTS down in Wakefield. Woirk load for the next 6 months or so would not have freed up enought time to get the TT done for the moidart run end of April and thought this would be the easiest and quickest option.

Full rebuild including new big ends ,big end bolts main bearings, gas flowed heads , exhaust valves and guides lightweight flywheel with Sachse digital ignition. I had already made a start on the motor by soda blasting the cases heads and barrels also polishing the outer covers prior to de-greasing.
Looks good enough to sit in the lounge. :)

View attachment 11814View attachment 11815
 
Does the engine still use square-toothed belts or have you converted it to take round tooth ones?
 
Still using the original style belts. Justr weighed the original flywheel and there is a saving of 900g.

Sam
 
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I put a new set on the Pantah when I rebuilt it last year but I see that Mdinaitalia don't list them anymore. It occurs to me that the square-tooth belts might be getting hard to find so I might look out for a set of later 2V pulleys for the future.
The gearbox sprocket retainer plates are hard to find too, I got one from Steine Dinse but had to buy some other stuff to make the postage worthwhile.
 
Not sure if DTS do spares sales but he seams to hold quite a stock of parts, may be worth a call if you are finding things difficult to source.

Sam
 
Original ss caliper mount that I shall be using to make a floaing caliper mount.


De-seamed and stay removed prior to machining and beadblasting.

 
Found an hour to get back into the workshop inbetween running my daughter to the netball then to hockey practice.
I machined a dowel to 17mm to take the caliper carrier





Then turned the boss so it was true to the wheel spindle centre



Bored out the centre to take a bush and then machined the rear to allow for a tophat spacer. There shall be one either side slightly longer than the carrier to allow the carrier to rotate.



 
Mount complete, I need to mount the swing arm to position the wheel and then make the outer spacer....but need to get on with earning work now. :rolleyes:

 
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