Skylifts are shit, Perry told me this…Can't beat a proper hydraulic bike ramp if you've got the space and the headroom. Skylifts/Big Blues etc are great for removing wheels but there's a reason all professional workshops use ramps.
Skylifts are shit, Perry told me this…Can't beat a proper hydraulic bike ramp if you've got the space and the headroom. Skylifts/Big Blues etc are great for removing wheels but there's a reason all professional workshops use ramps.
Can't beat a proper hydraulic bike ramp if you've got the space and the headroom. Skylifts/Big Blues etc are great for removing wheels but there's a reason all professional workshops use ramps.
How does the Abba Skylift attach to the Multi?
If it's only to remove wheels the cheapest option is an Abba stand with the front wheel lift attachment.Agreed, but then Hugo needs to invest in
- a wheel chock, unless it comes with the ramp,
- a fork stand for times when the front wheel has to come out
- an Abba superbike stand for times when the rear wheel has to come out,
- or an axle stand if it’s an SSSA
A Skylift does it all.
Feck it Hugo, spend some of the humongous grant the Govt gives farmers and buy both a ramp and a Skylift.
I have not and will not take government grants, Single Farm Payments, or anything else which comes with strings attached. I already get more than enough government interference.Agreed, but then Hugo needs to invest in
- a wheel chock, unless it comes with the ramp,
- a fork stand for times when the front wheel has to come out
- an Abba superbike stand for times when the rear wheel has to come out,
- or an axle stand if it’s an SSSA
A Skylift does it all.
Feck it Hugo, spend some of the humongous grant the Govt gives farmers and buy both a ramp and a Skylift.
Yes I did wonder if they had just used the old washer.Maybe, in the past, someone removed a plug to change it, didn’t notice the crush washer didn’t come out with it, installed a new plug complete with its crush washer and the 2 crush washers didn’t seal properly, allowing a slight blow back past the plug which may explain why it’s so sooty.
I’m not sure how you’re going to remove that short of grinding it out![]()
Do you have a bearing puller kit, not sure it would be able to grip the washer but all other methods I can think of involve head removalYes I did wonder if they had just used the old washer.
However I try to remove the washer I will have to make sure I don't damage the seating.
Safest and cleanest way, is head removal, Hugo has a spare engine from Bumpkins? old bike, do a head swap cocker. Then you're in a position to have a good go at the current head in a workable enviroment.Do you have a bearing puller kit, not sure it would be able to grip the washer but all other methods I can think of involve head removal![]()
You have a gun, right?^I shall try other methods first I haven't run out of ideas yet.
I delivered remedial treatment once to a recalcitrant laptop, using a .308. It didn't work. If anything it made things rather worse.You have a gun, right?
It'll go just fine. Threaten to blow it away, it'll fall over itself to comply (NB don't let it fall over).
yes the 7.62 military round will go through stanchions.I delivered remedial treatment once to a recalcitrant laptop, using a .308. It didn't work. If anything it made things rather worse.
I delivered remedial treatment once to a recalcitrant laptop, using a .308. It didn't work. If anything it made things rather worse.
I disagree.I delivered remedial treatment once to a recalcitrant laptop, using a .308. It didn't work. If anything it made things rather worse.
Immensely.Very satifying though![]()
Yeh, I deleted it less than a minute after posting as I realised as it was playing...Is that an Abba stand not the lift?
Don't try it with a shotgun on the old cathode ray monitors. some shot bounces back.I’ll remember that if I ever need to destroy one![]()
Don't try it with a shotgun on the old cathode ray monitors. some shot bounces back.
Spark plug washers are really crushable gaskets so are normally made of a soft, malleable metal.^I shall try other methods first I haven't run out of ideas yet.
They were changed at 25,000 miles (I think) I've had everything done by the book at the dealers until I did the fork seals and bushes. They are not the easiest machines to work on. It would be easier to work on if I had a motorbike lift.
Have you tried beating the motorcycle into submission with a hammer ? i hear it works a dream on fuel injected motorcycles^I shall try other methods first I haven't run out of ideas yet.
That was my first mode of attack, then I tried a rod with a ground end and a small washer welded to act as a fulcrum working from the inside edge of the "gasket"then I welded the spark plug thread to a rod and tried to tickle it out with the thread, I still have other ideas.Spark plug washers are really crushable gaskets so are normally made of a soft, malleable metal.
If you're sure there's a gasket in there, might be worth finding something to block the threaded plug hole to prevent anything galling into the combustion chamber and have a go with something like a good quality dental hook. If there is room to get the tool down the spark plug hole and the hook between the gasket and head and give it a pull, the gasket may come away quite easily and then work round the circumference lifting the gasket until it can be removed.
Many years back I once was working as a plasterers mate. The plasterer (Dave, not real name) was just finishing off polishing a ceiling when he got a lump of finish in his eye, stopping work immediately he asked me to help get the plaster out of his eye.That was my first mode of attack, then I tried a rod with a ground end and a small washer welded to act as a fulcrum working from the inside edge of the "gasket"then I welded the spark plug thread to a rod and tried to tickle it out with the thread, I still have other ideas.
But please keep the coming.
They are normally captivated on new plugs, more so when crushed after the first torque up - are you sure there is one in there at all?Yes I did wonder if they had just used the old washer.
However I try to remove the washer I will have to make sure I don't damage the seating.
Ah, you both got there as I was typing - you could also measure it to the top of the piston at TDC on both heads...^ that had occurred to me too. I'm fairly certain that it is still there. but I will take a phot of the V plug hole and compare notes. It is quite a fiddle trying to hod the torch and phone camera and line it all up.
Good shout, yes we can do that. I might end up taking the mud guard, front forks and wheel off to facilitate more easy access.They are normally captivated on new plugs, more so when crushed after the first torque up - are you sure there is one in there at all?
Can you measure a depth from both heads with a Vernier as they will still be a mm thickness.