CANNOT CANCEL ERROR, USING CODE

1098ray

1098ray

Active member
my 2007 1098s cut out on me while out for a ride and i found the problem straight away. the connectors from the generator to the rec/reg are fried and possibly the rec/reg is faulty now. the connectors had some oil on them from a previous oil leak and so did the connectors for the sidestand. i have cleaned the area of all oil and renewed one of the sidestand connectors. i have cut out the fried connectors and reconnected using singles. the advise given on previous posts recommends using a MOSFET reg/rec. i did the recall for changing the rec/reg ,heat shield and have done 16 K since then. the yellow warning light is on with error CAN 38.0 but when i press on the down button for 3 seconds nothing is happening. code should appear to cancel the error message. the bike is in neutral but there is no green light,but maybe this is to do with the error message on the dash. i have fitted the original rec/reg to check the newer one has not been damaged but i still cannot access the screen that says, code, to cancel the error message. lastly, does it matter which way i connect the 3 wires from generator to reg/rec ?.
 

Attachments

  • IMG20240903095400[1].webp
    IMG20240903095400[1].webp
    51.1 KB · Views: 489
You haven't mentioned your battery. How old is it. Have you checked to see if it holds a charge. If it was a few years old and you've run it flat because of the non charging it might have given up the ghost too.
I would replace the battery. That error code can be because of low voltage
 
1418 said:
You haven't mentioned your battery. How old is it. Have you checked to see if it holds a charge. If it was a few years old and you've run it flat because of the non charging it might have given up the ghost too.
I would replace the battery. That error code can be because of low voltage
Click to expand...
its a lithium battery,but its down to 12.3 because of all the messing about
 
I always found that once you have an issue with the rec/reg, unless siezed upon early, it almost has an effect of reg/rec, battery and alternator, the holy trinity if you will. I would personally, others may offer a different view, replace the battery and reg/rec at the same time. I'd also as a safeguard, check the alternator plug for greening/poor contact.
 
Noobie said:
I always found that once you have an issue with the rec/reg, unless siezed upon early, it almost has an effect of reg/rec, battery and alternator, the holy trinity if you will. I would personally, others may offer a different view, replace the battery and reg/rec at the same time. I'd also as a safeguard, check the alternator plug for greening/poor contact.
Click to expand...
before i buy a non lithium battery and a mosfet rec/reg, i have fitted another battery and the original rec/reg and i still cannot access CODE to override the error message. battery and reg/rec are in good working order. i have checked the fuse box and the main fuse just in front of the battery and replaced both relays at the rear of the battery. have i missed any relays or fuses out and does it matter which way the 3 yellow and 3 brown are connected from the generator to the reg/rec ?. as in the photo attached.
 
Ray, doesn't matter which yellow goes to which brown, I think it's a fault storage problem, that code has be cleared and stored too many times, so Ducati expects to take the bike to a dealer to clear the memory. The best guy's to confirm are @Nelly or @Derek
If you were in Yorks I would connect to my diagnostic and clear the memory for you.
 
BobTheBounder said:
Ray, doesn't matter which yellow goes to which brown, I think it's a fault storage problem, that code has be cleared and stored too many times, so Ducati expects to take the bike to a dealer to clear the memory. The best guy's to confirm are @Nelly or @Derek
If you were in Yorks I would connect to my diagnostic and clear the memory for you.
Click to expand...
ok, thanks . once i receive a new battery and mosfet rec/reg. i might have someone local that can clear the fault.
 
Error 38.0 is a Can Bus error. You need to identify what is causing it. From experience, two simple causes are poor battery and corrosion on the ECU heat sink. Both easy to sort with the latter requiring some Torx bits to split the ECU from the heat sink. Then some emery paper to clean both surfaces. The Can Bus system uses two wires between the ECU and Dash to transmit numerous sensor signals. If not the battery or heat sink it would be worth checking the continuity of the Can Bus cables. The wiring diagram at the end of the owners handbook will help with identifying them.
For info these are the sensors using the Can Bus
848/1098/1198
The signals exchanged over the CAN line between instrument panel and engine ECU are as follows:
- Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU)
- Neutral selected (input to engine ECU)
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Coolant temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Oil temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU)
- First level diagnostics code generated by the ECU
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates)
- Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel)
- Battery voltage
- Motorcycle model identification
- EOBD light control
- Immobilizer recovery
- Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel)
 
chrisw said:
Error 38.0 is a Can Bus error. You need to identify what is causing it. From experience, two simple causes are poor battery and corrosion on the ECU heat sink. Both easy to sort with the latter requiring some Torx bits to split the ECU from the heat sink. Then some emery paper to clean both surfaces. The Can Bus system uses two wires between the ECU and Dash to transmit numerous sensor signals. If not the battery or heat sink it would be worth checking the continuity of the Can Bus cables. The wiring diagram at the end of the owners handbook will help with identifying them.
For info these are the sensors using the Can Bus
848/1098/1198
The signals exchanged over the CAN line between instrument panel and engine ECU are as follows:
- Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU)
- Neutral selected (input to engine ECU)
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Coolant temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Oil temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU)
- First level diagnostics code generated by the ECU
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates)
- Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel)
- Battery voltage
- Motorcycle model identification
- EOBD light control
- Immobilizer recovery
- Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel)
Click to expand...
Sorry Chris, should have remembered you're the can bus king 👀 (y)
 
chrisw said:
Error 38.0 is a Can Bus error. You need to identify what is causing it. From experience, two simple causes are poor battery and corrosion on the ECU heat sink. Both easy to sort with the latter requiring some Torx bits to split the ECU from the heat sink. Then some emery paper to clean both surfaces. The Can Bus system uses two wires between the ECU and Dash to transmit numerous sensor signals. If not the battery or heat sink it would be worth checking the continuity of the Can Bus cables. The wiring diagram at the end of the owners handbook will help with identifying them.
For info these are the sensors using the Can Bus
848/1098/1198
The signals exchanged over the CAN line between instrument panel and engine ECU are as follows:
- Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU)
- Neutral selected (input to engine ECU)
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Coolant temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Oil temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU)
- First level diagnostics code generated by the ECU
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates)
- Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel)
- Battery voltage
- Motorcycle model identification
- EOBD light control
- Immobilizer recovery
- Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel)
Click to expand...
middle of next week i should have my parts and fitted, then i can pursue the above. cheers.
 
fitted new battery and mosfet reg/rec and mechanic put diagnostics onto the bike. it said that there is a power outage ,so i will have to check everything until the fault is found. at the moment the fuel pump and the neutral light does not come on. i will probably start with the stator seen as the connector to the reg/rec from the stator was fried. photo on first post.
 
tested the stator and the ohms reading is 0.00 . i will be removing the casing to double check that the stator has burnt out. just waiting on my puller tool to arrive. can you recommend a good stator at a reasonable price. massive price range available from £41 to £191
 
Have had good service from this company in the past
www.westcountrywindings.co.uk

Westcountry Windings

We specialise in rewinding motorcycle ignition stators, alternators and generators, using high quality materials. We can also supply regulator rectifiers, RM Stator replacement units, ignition pick ups, Healtech and SES race products.
www.westcountrywindings.co.uk www.westcountrywindings.co.uk
 
chrisw said:
Have had good service from this company in the past
www.westcountrywindings.co.uk

Westcountry Windings

We specialise in rewinding motorcycle ignition stators, alternators and generators, using high quality materials. We can also supply regulator rectifiers, RM Stator replacement units, ignition pick ups, Healtech and SES race products.
www.westcountrywindings.co.uk www.westcountrywindings.co.uk
Click to expand...
Agree Chris, looking at these guys for the update kit for the forthcoming RSVR.


 
1098ray said:
i will look out for a series r/r. how much will it cost in the price range i mentioned.
Click to expand...
Ray, this is the bad boy you want, you'll need the adapter kit too, plus it will be safe to fit a LiPo battery, so you can fit an bog standard stator and not worry about frying the windings.
Not cheap though!

CARR5925-SERIE - MOSFET SERIE SERIES Voltage regulator rectifier (improved SH847) like compu-fire [CARR5925-SH847 SERIES rec.] - £140.45 : Carmo Electronics, The place for parts or electronics for your Motorbike Quad Scooter Car or Jetski

Carmo Electronics CARR5925-SERIE - MOSFET SERIE SERIES Voltage regulator rectifier (improved SH847) like compu-fire [CARR5925-SH847 SERIES rec.] - SERIE SERIES Voltage Regulator / Rectifier - CARR5925-SERIE (improved SH847) Reduces alternator temperature by 25%, greatly increasing its...
www.carmoelectronics.co.uk
 
I did what @Robarano did and used a modern Ducati one with Triumph leads (I sourced a 2 year old one from a V4 Panigale for not a lot of money)... relocating it with the kit in this thread:


Robarano

Thread 'Mosfet Regulator Conversion - Lithium Battery Safe'

I've decided to reproduce an article I originally posted on The Ducati Forum as it's a one that keeps getting referenced by others a bit when looking into installing a Lithium battery into an older Ducati that wasn't intended to be equiped with one originally, as it usually preceeded the technology.

So............I've got round to fitting the Mosfet regulator to the 1098R today. As I was a complete novice as to doing this conversion, I've decided to post this, in case it's useful to others doing the same.

Time -
  • Approx 2 hours
Parts -
  • Mosfet regulator. I got this 2nd...
  • Like
  • Useful
  • Thanks
 
i have just purchased a mosfet reg/rec last month. its a recommendation on a stator that i need,they vary from £41 to £191. i dont see any point in paying for 2 x p/p and their time to rewind the old one thats done 35k.
 
1098ray said:
i,m getting 0.6 at all 3 wires with the multimeter set at 200 ohms
Click to expand...
Sorry Ray only just seen this, there should be no continuity from either the three phases to the internal ring, or earth if it were still installed on the bike.
New stator required chief :(
 
just found a clip/video of a problem solver on youtube under ERROR CODE CAN 38.0 SOLUTION. I looked at all the fuses about 3 times but when i tested the fuse it has blown , for the ecu 5a. as you can see from the photo it looks in good nick. so thats the error code off the dash now. my next problem is why the bike will not start. i put fresh fuel in it and it is firing for a split second but will not tick over. the fuel pump is coming on ok . i have renewed the battery,mosfet reg/rec,nuetral switch and both the relays next to the battery. voltage on the battery is about 12.9 and 12.0 on the clock, always been a poor starter. both plugs have been cleaned. could it be the starter motor is faulty or something is draining the battery when i press the starter button ? .
IMG20241211112140[1].webp
 
1098ray said:
just found a clip/video of a problem solver on youtube under ERROR CODE CAN 38.0 SOLUTION. I looked at all the fuses about 3 times but when i tested the fuse it has blown , for the ecu 5a. as you can see from the photo it looks in good nick. so thats the error code off the dash now. my next problem is why the bike will not start. i put fresh fuel in it and it is firing for a split second but will not tick over. the fuel pump is coming on ok . i have renewed the battery,mosfet reg/rec,nuetral switch and both the relays next to the battery. voltage on the battery is about 12.9 and 12.0 on the clock, always been a poor starter. both plugs have been cleaned. could it be the starter motor is faulty or something is draining the battery when i press the starter button ? .View attachment 125340
Click to expand...
I’d say the problem with that fuse is corrosion on the blades. I often have to remove fuses on bikes of a certain vintage, clean the blades of corrosion and reinstall them and all is fine.

Hard to determine remotely what the non-starting issue is. Does it start and run at all but just won’t idle or does it not even start?
 
West Cork Paul said:
I’d say the problem with that fuse is corrosion on the blades. I often have to remove fuses on bikes of a certain vintage, clean the blades of corrosion and reinstall them and all is fine.

Hard to determine remotely what the non-starting issue is. Does it start and run at all but just won’t idle or does it not even start?
Click to expand...
it will not start and idle. it is firing but its like there is no fuel getting to the injectors. the fuel pump is priming ok when i turn on the ignition. i will test the solenoid and starter motor next.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom