1098ray
Active member
cheers, might get a good one from ALIEXPRESS
CANNOT CANCEL ERROR, USING CODE
- Thread starter 1098ray
- Start date
1098ray
Active member
sorted, £26 . don,t think santa will deliver
1098ray
Active member
the bike is now starting but only when i give the throttle a little twist and hold on for 3-4 seconds,so i have almost fixed problem. while the bike has been running i put the side stand up and down in gear and there was never a problem with the switch. might have been neutral switch and bad fuse for ecu. cleaned both plugs again. other problem solved might have been original rec/reg had blowen . is it possible that the starter motor is dodgy?. tried it with another good battery as well/ . ps, happy new year to all on forum.
By opening the throttle in order to start you are adjusting the position of the TPS and thus changing the voltage that goes to the ECU telling it to put in more fuel. If it won’t start without you doing this then the fuelling strategy at start up is wrong.
It may be a simple TPS reset is required or it may be due to some other reason. I know I keep mentioning this but without being able to get some detailed diagnostic information from the various sensors around the bike you really are just guessing at things.
If it is the TPS that’s out that raises the question as to why? If it was OK why has it changed?
With regards to you putting the side stand up and down whilst the bike was running and in gear, I presume you had the clutch pulled in in order to do this ? In which case moving the side stand has no affect as the clutch switch overrides the side stand cut off switch.
Why do you think the starter motor is dodgy?
1098ray
Active member
none
1098ray
Active member
because it is struggling to start.
Struggling to fire up and run of its own accord or struggling to turn over?
1098ray
Active member
struggling to fire and run of its own accord
Then it’s not the starter motor.
By you opening the throttle slightly to get it to fire up you’re actually putting more load on the starter as there’s more air being sucked in to compress. Don’t fret about the starter motor it’s a red herring. Look at why the throttle needs to be twisted open in order for it to fire up.
I presume you are using the ‘fast idle’ lever?
Have you thought about using JPDiag, the free diagnostics software? Well, free bar the cables you need to connect a laptop running the software to the bike.
1098ray
Active member
whats a fast idle lever?
It’s a while since I had my hands on a 1098 but doesn’t it have a fast idle lever to the right of the left hand switch gear? Certainly the 848 I had here recently had one and that’s the same as a 1098 just a smaller cc engine.
The fast idle lever opens the throttle valves a smidgen which moves the TPS which instructs the ECU to dose more fuel making the start up mixture richer and facilitating a cold start. It’s the same as you saying you have to turn the throttle in order to get it to start but it applies a precisely measured amount of turn and saves you having to hold the throttle open until the engine has warmed up. When the lever is in use the engine idles at a higher rev than normal until you knock it off and the warmed engine can hold idle.
As for the power commander, I’m not a big fan of them. They work by piggy backing the ECU and interfering with the messages from various sensors going to the ECU to trick the ECU into dosing more fuel. Typically they are tapped into temperature sensors and trick the ECU into thinking the incoming air is colder than it really is thus the ECU, thinking the air is denser, holds the injectors open for longer at each pulse.
If your starting issue is due to an incorrect A/F ratio you’ve now got to work out whether it’s a sensor at fault or the power commander or the ECU.
I had a Panigale with me a couple of years back, was a right pain to start, didn’t idle cleanly and stuttered on acceleration. That had a PC fitted. The first thing I had to do in order to track down the fault was remove the PC from the wiring loom and go back to the original set up in order to start testing. Lo and behold as soon as the PC was removed everything was fine.
I’m not saying the PC is your issue here, you’ll never know until tests have been run, but it will be a complicating factor.
It’s a long time since I had my 1098 but I’m sure there wasn’t a fast idle on it.
I remember having an issue with the stepper motor which made it a pig to start and run smoothly, it went back to Motorapido so the stepper motor could be replaced.
I think the 998 was the last superbike with fast idle lever, 999 had a 1 touch start system, does the 1098 have that too, may be a relay issue?
I believe it does
Ok, no fast idle lever on that one then, I was just going off an 848 I recently had here of a similar vintage.
If it has a stepper motor then there won’t be a fast idle lever, the stepper motor acts as an automatic choke. The only way I know to check that’s doing what it should is via a diagnostic computer and comparing what the one on the bike does with what it should be doing.
If it has a stepper motor then there won’t be a fast idle lever, the stepper motor acts as an automatic choke. The only way I know to check that’s doing what it should is via a diagnostic computer and comparing what the one on the bike does with what it should be doing.
The Mk1 T9 has a fast idle lever and no one-touch starter system (what a truly hideous idea that is).
Ray, it must be infuriating to have the issue that you've been trying to rectify since September. Have you got to a point yet where leaving it at a garage may help?
North Motorcycle I know It's a 6 hour round trip but you're into month four of trying to fix things
ERS Racing which is mainly a suspension company but I understand does do ducati work in dunfirmline with a slightly less round trip
I know distance is an issue but a bike in a van to a recognised independent/official ducati trip might just get it up and ready for the spring and with a lot less stress ?
North Motorcycle I know It's a 6 hour round trip but you're into month four of trying to fix things
ERS Racing which is mainly a suspension company but I understand does do ducati work in dunfirmline with a slightly less round trip
I know distance is an issue but a bike in a van to a recognised independent/official ducati trip might just get it up and ready for the spring and with a lot less stress ?
1098ray
Active member
just put the bike in for its belts change and asked the mechanic to put the texa diagnostics on it and it came up as the TPS needing adjusted/reset. he told me the adaptives had been reset electronically . so hopefully this will be the end of my problems with the bike. but i asked if i would need to get the bike re-dynoed because the TPS had been altered and he said if its running good dont bother. ps, power commander fitted. do i need to get it dynoed again ?.
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Great news Ray, if after this she runs to your liking, I wouldn't bother, the PC just overrides the fuel map.
Was it a generic map in the PC or a bespoke whilst on a dyno?
1098ray
Active member
whilst on a dyno. but i spoke to soon. today the bike will not start unless i twist the throttle and it will not idle by itself , i have to hold the rpm at about 2500-3000 to get it to tick-over. once up to about 103 both fans kick in.
Failing TPS sensor
You wouldn't want to dislodge that and let it drop into the cylinder, carb cleaner would probably loosen it
I don't know if this is any good
Probably wise to wait until some of those who have had the same issue you have?
Probably wise to wait until some of those who have had the same issue you have?
Nelly told him (on the other channel) to leave it be.