Your fuel pipes have probably come off the pump assembly in the tank - look in your tank filler hole when trying to start, it should be still, if there is a 'current' then your fuel pump is pumping back into the fuel tank...it will not start and idle. it is firing but its like there is no fuel getting to the injectors. the fuel pump is priming ok when i turn on the ignition. i will test the solenoid and starter motor next.
Oops, just noticed you got there before meThink I'd also check the internal fuel hoses in the tank for splits and connections.
it will not start and idle. it is firing but its like there is no fuel getting to the injectors. the fuel pump is priming ok when i turn on the ignition. i will test the solenoid and starter motor next.
I disagree, the fuel runs in a loop from the tank via the pre pump filter to the pump to the post pump filter to the injectors and back to the tank, superfluous fuel will be squirted back into the tank. That’s not to say a hose hasn’t perished but fuel moving in the tank as the pump runs is not always indicative of a split hose.Your fuel pipes have probably come off the pump assembly in the tank - look in your tank filler hole when trying to start, it should be still, if there is a 'current' then your fuel pump is pumping back into the fuel tank...![]()
Nah, he likely has a fuel pipe off - happened to my 1098R last yearIs it turning over? You say it’s firing, so I presume it is turning over, if so there’s no need to check the solenoid and starter motor as they’re working.
Check the basics, spark, fuel, compression. Presumably as it was running before the canbus error with a dodgy fuse compression is ok. Pull the spark plugs, are they wet with unburnt fuel or bone dry? Check for a spark at both. Go from there.
I disagree, the fuel runs in a loop from the tank via the pre pump filter to the pump to the post pump filter to the injectors and back to the tank, superfluous fuel will be squirted back into the tank. That’s not to say a hose hasn’t perished but fuel moving in the tank as the pump runs is not always indicative of a split hose.
Additionally I’d be wary of pulling the pump assembly unless it’s really necessary. The tank is plastic, it will have swollen, pull the pump assembly and whilst you can get the bolts out it’s a bigger to get them lined up to go back in. For sure it has to be done to change the fuel filter (more on that below) but it’s a PITA to reseat the pump assembly - I’ve just been through it on an 848.
Do you need to change a fuel filter? Common acceptance was yes 15 or more years ago. Nowadays it’s no longer listed as a service item on bikes from about 2012 onwards. Try and even find the part number for a fuel filter for bikes nowadays.
Oh, I’m not saying he hasn’t, it’s impossible to tell without pulling the pump assembly, I’m just saying that seeing fuel pumping around in the tank is not necessarily an indicator of that, to a degree it’s kinda normal.Nah, he likely has a fuel pipe off - happened to my 1098R last yearcut out while running and wouldn’t re start
fuel swirling round the tank, pipe re fitted, no swirling
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Oh, I’m not saying he hasn’t, it’s impossible to tell without pulling the pump assembly 15 MIN JOB ANYWAY (BUT NOT IN WEST CORK, I’m just saying that seeing fuel pumping around in the tank is not necessarily an indicator of that, to a degree it’s kinda normal. NOPE - MUCH MORE OF A NOTABLE SURGE IF THE PIPE IS OFF
Anyway, why would it just fall off. The bike was presumably fine until the issue with the dirty 5A fuse. MINE JUST FELL OFF - WHOEVER PUT IT ON OMMITED A CLIP
Anyway further, how did your 1098R get it a fuel pipe disconnect it never goes anywhere outside the ‘showroom’ON THE WAY TO HELMSLEY - I HAVE 4 BIKES ON THE ROAD, UNLIKE THOSE ON HERE WITH NONE
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my bike has always been a poor starter,after 10k a bike mechanic suggested a sprag but it did not help. then i bought a kit from exact start and that made it slightly better. for the last couple of years i have had a lithium battery and that solved the problem, but i then found out that its not a good idea on that bike., plus its a no no with a mosfet reg/rec. so when i get these problems sorted its going to be a pain starting it again. the other thing i found out about my bike is i cannot pull the clutch in and start it in first gear., it would just drain the battery.My 1098 has done 39,000, sometime ago around 33,000 miles, it became difficult to start. One day i started it to go for a ride i put it into gear and it stalled and wouldn't start again
I replaced numerous sensors fitted extra leads to the starter circuit new battery. The diagnostics kept showing low voltage with coil and injector failure. I tried jumping it from the car. When it turned over it didn't sound sluggish it just wouldn't start. I did loads of things but
In the end I bought a new sprag, fitted that and now I only have to look at the starter button and it fires up
I thought long and hard before forking out wished I could have found a big hill to bump start it. I had a mate with a classic race bike who had some rollers that went under his van wheels but he'd got rid of them
Push starting on the flat is nigh on impossible
looks like its my duty to get the tank off this afternoon. cheers guys, keep the tips coming
tested the solenoid ,just to double check its ok. got 12.45 using 20v on the m/m. removed the fuel pump and it looks in perfect condition.Your fuel pipes have probably come off the pump assembly in the tank - look in your tank filler hole when trying to start, it should be still, if there is a 'current' then your fuel pump is pumping back into the fuel tank...![]()
The connectors on 1098 type bikes are proper wank and unlike the earlier connectors they can't be swapped out for proper chrome plated brass ones - but I do think the o-rings are the same and I can post him some FOC no problemDoesn't exi do such things?
got some on ebay, £2.49 for 2Doesn't exi do such things?
The connectors on 1098 type bikes are proper wank and unlike the earlier connectors they can't be swapped out for proper chrome plated brass ones - but I do think the o-rings are the same and I can post him some FOC no problemgot some o rings /seals on ebay, just for the record you can change connectors on a 1098 2007 no problem.,but i tried the same thing on a 2011 multistrada fuel line and it cannot be done. the lines look like they have a teflon lining so the diameter is smaller. ie, making it impossible to slide in a connector
Got a link, please?got some on ebay, £2.49 for 2
the connectors that i have bought in the past for my 2007 1098s have always had one blue and one black O ring/seals. its always the black ones that get nipped/broken with me.Got a link, please?
how do you bench test itDoes look pretty feckin clean Ray, have you bench tested it?
Could have a split/leak whilst under pressure!
thats nice and easy to test the pump but i was hoping to test all of it .I'm sure someone else will explain better but this is the basic test
Aye Ray, I wouldn't use water personally, I've used paraffin or brake cleaner to good effect previously.is it possible to test all of the pump using the connector as power with the battery connected to the bike. maybe submerge in a bucket of water with dye inserted into the pump and use a hose to blank off the inlet/outlet. one problem might be getting a shock
petrolAye Ray, I wouldn't use water personally, I've used paraffin or brake cleaner to good effect previously.
Tbh Ray, go the kerosene/diesel route, then clean thoroughly with brake cleaner.petrol
Time to replace the crank position sensor methinks.started bike and its firing more but then cutting out. i kept doing this and then PK.UP 34.0 appeared, pick-up sensor error. the bike still wants to fire with the error message. disconnected the connector from the loom to sensor and it looked in good nick. tested sensor and i am getting 0.84 using 200k ohms but only at certain terminals on the sensor connector.